ECOTOURISM MELANESIA: Walk the Kokoda Track (tour EM10)

Feedback from past trekkers

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RACHEL O'BRIEN (Victoria Police) (Trek 805B June 2008)
Before, during and after the trek I over heard a number of trekkers from other companies grizzling about their group size for the trek. Some say that they were told their was 15 in the group to arrive and have 33 in the group. To say they were disappointed is an understatement. To watch the impact that these large groups had on the track and the villages they passed through was not right. I have no doubt that their experience would be adversely affected by the group size. Companies that advertise 'platoon' size groups as being 'ideal' have no idea. What's needed is small intimate respectful groups who leave nothing but footprints. I can definitely say that Ecotourism Melanesia achieves this.

KEN WOODWARD (Trek 718 Aug 2007)
It was great. A wonderful experience. All of the arrangements worked, though our plane from Popondetta back to Port Moresby was cancelled, causing all sorts of mayhem. However, this was beyond the control of our tour organisers. Our truck at Kokoda was also grossly late and this may have been more within the sphere of control of the organisers. But we got there in the end.There were only 6 trekkers in our party and all were happy customers. The Eco tourism mob has a strategy of using villages along the track as much as possible and we liked that. We ate local food and enjoyed it and stayed at rest houses owned by the villagers every night. Other parties on the track that we met tended to camp in tents and carried all their food. Just like being in an Australian camping area. So we thought we got more of a PNG experience.Our party was well led by a PNGan who spoke good English, made good decisions and gave us good advice. We all made it with no injuries or health problems, but the party of 18 which travelled more or less in tandem with us lost 3 in the first three days. The country is even more rugged than I imagined it, but our guides emphasised travelling at our own pace and this worked well. Eight days is plenty of time. We only walked for about an hour on our last day and the first two days were only about four hours walking. We had more or less one on one guides and this helped us to get to know the locals more than some of the other parties that we saw. I suspect that we may not have got as much of the military history on the way with our local guides as compared with the white-led parties. The PNGans tend to be a bit shy and while they respond well to questions don't volunteer information as much as some.The boss of Eco Tourism, a bloke called Aaron, is very laid back and gave us a fairly accurate account of what to expect. He even conceded that the arrangements with villagers were not always reliable, but thought that was part of the experience. I agree. However, I thought he could have done more to reorganise things after the cancellation of our return flight. As a result of this we did miss our visit to Bomana War Cemetery and tour of Port Moresby.So I think it is fair to say we were all happy, although the Eco Tourism style may not suit everybody. But for those seeking a bit of a PNG experience as well as the physical challenge of the track it is great.

DAVE SARGENT AND DAUGHTER KYLIE (Trek 717 Aug 2007)
Me and Kylie would appreciate it if you would pass these gifts on to our porters Clint and Bruce. We were really thankful for their assistance on our trek. We both thoroughly enjoyed the whole trip. Thanks again for organising the trek, you never know we might be back to do it again.

DAVID POLKINGHORNE (Trek 718 Aug 2007)
The walk was fantastic, Philip and the lads are a true asset to your company. The food was excellent. Menari & Alola were very beautiful. The water at Hoi was a treat. Overall it was a thoroughly enjoyable trip, made even better by the porter and guide.

JOHN RENNICK (Trek 716 July 2007 - private group)
Highlight: Walking from Owers Corner for a number of days to finally reach Isurava Memorial. South to North you would appreciate the significance more. An excellent group of porters, they made our experience all the more memorable.

MAX AND MARY LEIGHTON (Trek 716 July 2007)
Magnificent unbelievable, Philip and his men were outstanding. The porters worked beyond the call of duty, they were all very helpful & friendly. Philip was a superb guide.

BRIAN COLE (Trek 713a June/July 2007 - private group)
Highlights: The skills & expertise of the staff of Ecotourism Melanesia. The friendliness of the porters ad guides. A great experience. Eileen’s skills in organization greatly appreciated. Crispin and his “Legends” deserve everything they get & more – they are exceptional. Thanks also to Max for his historical commentary.

RICK SOUTER (Trek 713a June/July 2007)
I really looked forward to and enjoyed Isurava Memorial. I also enjoyed the Buna attraction – dancing in ceremonial dress etc.

MICK JEAYS (Trek 713a June/July 2007)
The highlights of the trek? Not knowing what to expect each day. Fantastic Porters. Fantastic Guide. Fantastic Historian.

JULIE JACKMAN (Trek 712a June 2007 - private navy and police group)
Well we're back at the grindstone now and I have to say I miss the track quite a bit (I know - some have called me a bit weird). However firstly I'd like to say once again that it was a wonderful experience and I'll be recommending your company to all. Secondly - thank you to all the porters - namely Barnabas….and of course - thank you to Phillip!Lastly - I would like to do the trip again in the future and would like to do the four day trek - could you please let me know details for it…..prices etc. It's not urgent as it won't be for a while - but it's something that I would really like to do again. Thank you for the experience that will forever remain as my most favorite.

SUE HARVEY (Trek 712a June 2007)
Highlights? So many highlights and the side trip to Gona & Buna were outstanding. Walking Kokoda itself. Listening to the porters singing at night. Meeting the villages and their children. The side trips to see historic sites. The porters in general – they were all great and made sure we were well looked after. It was like they had a sixth sense when we were struggling. No disappointments – all fantastic.

ROB GRAHAM (Trek 712a June 2007)
Appreciated finishing the walk safely - the whole journey was a highlight. You are putting together a great package. Well done!

TONYA GRAHAM (Trek 712a June 2007)
Highlights included the porters playing the ukelele and singing as we walked along, especially on the long days. A great pick up for all of us. The whole trek was awesome & so glad I did it with you guys. Robert was my porter and he was absolutely excellent. He appeared out of nowhere at creek crossings to give me a had & was always there to help. Philip was an excellent guide. Would recommend to others.

STEVE MCCANN (Trek 706 Apr 2007)
The highlights of the trek
- Bonding with porters and guide
- BBQ
- Buna/Coastal visit
- Interaction with village people
Overall I had a great time.

ALAN HAMILTON (Trek 619 Aug 2006)
I did your trek some months ago and i can say i had a fantastic time. I could have booked with one of the large groups such as Kokoda adventures and everything would have gone like clockwork---walked with 40 or more walkers and 50 porters---not a problem----but not the same----------------but i booked with eco mel in a small group and in my case 3 other walkers----these 3 other people i will always remember plus the eight Kokoda porters and guides-------fantastic group of people------to sort out some of my many problems i would like to express my deep appreciation to a young lady named Minnie in your office in Port Moresby---------a really great asset to your company-------beautiful person.

REG TOOHEY (Trek 610 May 2006)
I found the 6 days just right, it was a hard walk for me as I weigh 120kg, 130kg with backpack. I only trained for 3 weeks and was semi fit. I have a strong will and that is what got me through. Set your mind that it will be tough and you will be very pleased at the end. I took it steady drank lots of water 9 lt one day, take electrolytes or salt tables as you sweat a lot, eat well I got a lot of staying power from the rice and not much from noodles or pasta, eat during the day while you are walking, after 3hrs I stated to lose energy if I did not eat. If you are of average fitness and train for the walk you will really enjoy it like I did. The porters are great really helpful and fun.

KEN FERGUSON, REDHEAD NSW (Trek 610 May 2006)
Thanks again for a wonderful trek. It more than lived up to our expectations.

BRIAN JONES, SMITHS LAKE NSW (Trek 609 April 2006)
I have been working on sending you guys a letter of thanks. The organisation of flights, Priscilla's lodge and food, and the day spent in Kokoda were excellent. Phillip did a truly great job as group leader. He was always firmly in control, friendly and helpful, and took care of any worries we had. The accommodation in village guest houses was far superior to tents and gave us a taste of real village life and food. The plan of only having small groups really made a difference. I felt sorry for the large groups we encountered where it would have been impossible to have the personal interaction we were able to have with Phillip and the boys- plus we slept warm, dry and clean with a place to hang our very wet and smelly clothes overnight!
Thanks again EM team for the experience of a lifetime- my only regret is that I didn't do it years ago, and that I may not be able to do it again! (I'd really like to take my daughters, 7 & 9, on the track in a few years time.)

BRUCE SWAIN (Military historian and author, private helicopter tour April 2006)
Let me express my deep gratitude for an excellent tour. Your guide Major Bruce Copeland was great company (I like to think I broadened his knowledge a bit - although it was already extensive), and he certainly made me feel like a "celebrity" at each village when he told the inhabitants about me. Phillip was extremely helpful, looking after me like a mother hen - helping me up and down the slopes, etc., and being very patient with me when I needed to take a short break even on a slight climb. And it was delightful to receive a garland of flowers (lei?) from his little daughter at Kokoda. David is definitely a top-class pilot. I've flown with many, in both fixed- and rotary-wing aircraft, and I'd fly with him anywhere any time. He was also very accommodating on the way back, circling Isurava so that I could get shots of "Front Creek" and "Rear Creek" and therefore get a perspective of the distance between them - i.e., the small area the 39th and 2/14th Battalions were concentrated in during the battle. He was concerned about the weather conditions in "The Gap", which were "marginal" to say the least, but navigated his way through safely and successfully. We both agreed on the old saying: "There are old pilots and there are bold pilots - but there are no old and bold pilots!"
I had a fantastic time at Kokoda village - being welcomed by the dancers and the natives, and meeting Priscilla was an experience in itself. I was greatly impressed with her historical knowledge, and her determination to keep the memory of those terrible days in 1942-3 alive among the people in her district. If there are such things as "New Guinea Gongs" awarded up there, she certainly deserves one for her work and dedication.
The (Gateway) hotel was top-class, and the service excellent. I was very impressed with how friendly and polite all the staff were. All in all, albeit very brief, my stay was most enjoyable - and the visit to the (Bomana) cemetery and the trip along the Track will remain in my mind forever. I think I felt every emotion apart from lust and greed - not the least being deep pride and a great sadness.
As I said, if you ever need someone to give a "pre-trek brief" to a group of trekkers, either here before they depart or up there, I would be glad to discuss such an arrangement with you.
I hate the word "expert", but in all modesty I believe my knowledge of the campaign is as extensive as anybody's - I know Priscilla was impressed, and she said my knowledge was far greater than any other "trekker" she had spoken to. My only regret is that I could not get better perspective of "Brigade Hill", and it was unfortunate we could not land there.
Once again, I congratulate you on and thank you for a very well organized and conducted trip. It is indelibly imprinted on my memory.

CHARLES STEPHENSON (Trek 521 September 2005)
I have had a number of people ask me about the Kokoda Track and I intend to recommend Ecotourism to them for a truly authentic and enjoyable experience

LEN RESNEKOV, KIRRIBILLI NSW (Trek 518 August 2005)
I would definitely recommend Ecotourism to my friends to use... I am very happy with your company.

PETER HURDWELL, NSW (Trek 518 August 2005)
I must say that although I had read a lot about PNG and, in particular the Kokoda Campaign, the trip lived up to and exceeded my expectations. The organization of the trek was very good and I felt that the Guide and Porters were absolutely outstanding. They were very understanding, kind and thoughtful and all had a wonderful sense of humour. It was very difficult to say goodbye on the final night at the hotel. When we finally emerged out of the jungle at Owers Corner, we were looking forward to a beer or two and who should turn up with all the goodies but Eileen. It was like meeting Florence Nightingale as she dispensed wonderful sandwiches plus some ice cold beers which went down very well. Thank you for a truly memorable trek and please give our kindest wishes to Philip and the boys.

GAI DIXON, NSW (Trek 517 August 2005)
I want to thank you on behalf of Sandra, John and myself for organising our trip and especially thank our guide John Hunt and all the porters, Molly, Kenson, Leyman, Ruben, Melton and Moi for their assistance in doing the Kododa Trek. Which would not have been possible for us to do without them. Once again thanks for organising our once in a life time trek.

JOHN MOORE, NSW (Trek 517 August 2005)
Highlight of the trek was walking through the world's largest war memorial... with paradise thown in.

WARREN LYNAM, NSW (Trek 513 June 2005)
For many years I have planned walking the Kokoda Track, to find out how hard it was for the locals and the Australian soldiers. It has met all my expectations.

MARY LOU HISHON, BRISBANE QLD (trekked alone with 3 porters, April 2005)
Many highlights, but overall actually enjoyed the whole experience. I was always able to be in an optimal frame of frame of mind. This is the result of Jean, Malcolm and Martin supporting my walk at a pace I could manage. Spending the night at Kokoda first gave me time to recharge my batteries and gather my thoughts prior to the trek. I was thus able to start the trek on the right foot. Thanks for all your great organisation, everything went like clockwork.

PAULA MEDWAY, DARWIN NT
It was wonderful to stay in the villages and interact with villagers. 8 days of walking seemed like the right amount. I never felt hungry. Eating as the PNG people eat was all part of the experience. A fellow trekker brought along a bottle of Tabasco Sauce which was a great asset. Guide and porters went above and beyond the call of duty. Special thanks to Robert and Philip. Well done Aaron on providing a sound, fun, well organised ecotourist trek. Would highly recommend Ecotourism Melanesia to friends.

MARIA WINDSOR, KILMORE VIC
Had the time of my life and am coming back next year !

ANTHONY PURDON, EAGLEMONT VIC
Thoroughly enjoyed the experience with all its challenges along the way, both on and off the Track.

PAUL AND CAROLINE MAHER, KILMORE VIC
We absolutely loved our experience and as you heard on our last night at the Gateway Hotel, we found that our most treasured moments came from our interaction with the villagers along the track and most importantly, the close bonds we formed with our guides/porters. We both experienced a life changing event which would not have possible except for the brilliant planning and professionalism by the staff of Ecotourism Melanesia. Thankyou for such an unforgettable and enjoyable experience. To Barney, Phil, John (Hunt), Alban (A.K.), 'Toffey" (Mel's guide), 'Paxy', Melton and Ernest. These men are forever special friends who made our trek an experience never to be forgotten. The friendship, compassion and support provided to five 'initial' strangers (later to be friends) will never be forgotten. Can you please ensure a copy of this email and photo's are forwarded to them.

MR MICHAEL HARRINGTON, SANS SOUCI NSW
Inspired by Peter Brune's book " A Bastard of a Place " my nephew Troy and I recently decided to hike the Kokoda Track. Or more exactly given my age (54) we decided to do part of it, Kokoda to Isurava return. One day up and one day back! Aaron Hayes of Ecotourism Melanesia organised the trip. His contacts in Kokoda township, Priscilla and Jeff Ogomeni provided accomodation and organised local porters to aid our trek. Priscilla and Jeff are from Kokoda, but with many years experience of living in Australia. They fussed over us like mother hens and gave us a good insight into the Melanesian way of life.
Came the morning of the trek and armed with small rucksacks (about 7kg) and trusty guides Jacob and Tom we headed off towards Isurava village, an estimated 8 hours away. The morning was mild and the first two hours were more or less level. Then the going got tough, then it got really tough! The track itself is less than 1 meter wide and the steep uphill portions consist of tree roots. You must watch every single step or you could easily have an embarassing fall. The guides were graceful and sure footed, Tom was even bare footed! They slowed to our pace so that we could mirror their exact footsteps, this was a great help. They graciously offered to take our rucksacks but we stubbornly refused, we were after all on a pilgrimage. We were grateful for every bit of training we had done before the adventure, we wished we had done more! Oh the bliss of fresh a running stream we kept criss crossing on the way up. Oh the joy when we finally trudged to a guest house near Isurava village. Quickly we changed into fresh warm clothes, Isurava is cool at night, whilst our guides built a campfire and organised the local villagers to bring on yams, potatoes and fruit. That night we slept the long sleep of the innocent, we had earned it.
Next morning before our return journey we detoured to the memorial at Isurava. It is a brilliantly designed yet simple tribute to the men who fought and died during the WWII Kokoda campaign. "COURAGE" "ENDURANCE", "SACRIFICE" and "MATESHIP" are emblazoned onto four huge stone blocks. Battles were actually fought on this site, men laid down their lives here, for each other and for Australia. The whole layout of the memorial encourages an air of spirituality, it is a moving tribute. We met other trekkers at Kokoda and Port Moresby, all said that the memorial at Isurava was the high point of their trek.
With misty eyes we commenced our trip back to Kokoda. Downhill, then more downhill, fantastic, we were almost sprinting on occasions! We arrived back at Kokoda to a hero's welcome from Priscilla and Jeff. Our adventure was over and a success!
I would like to pay tribute to the organizational ability and affability of Aaron Hayes. All facets of our PNG trip went smoothly, this would not have been possible without Aaron's local knowledge.