THE KOKODA TRACK - experience the legend
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SMALL
GROUP TREKKING Our environmentally friendly, historically inspiring and culturally stimulating small-group Kokoda walks are a low-key alternative to the large military-style groups of up to 100 trekkers and porters (carriers) that some commercial trekking companies take crashing along the Track. Our small group treks appeal to discerning walkers who are seeking a more personal interaction with the local people and a greater understanding of the significance of the Kokoda Track that can only come with a slower paced, smell-the-roses type of trekking experience. We are particularly experienced in catering for the 40+ age group and we host a high proportion of female trekkers. Our packages include everything at the PNG end. Just add on the best available airfare to Port Moresby or use up your frequent flyer points. See 10 good reasons for walking the Kokoda Track with Ecotourism Melanesia. |
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WHAT
IS THE KOKODA TRACK? In 2002 Australian Prime Minister John Howard opened a new memorial at Isurava (see below left) to commemorate the 60th anniversary of the most fierce of the battles along the Kokoda Track, the Battle of Isurava 26-29 August 1942. Private Bruce Kingsbury was posthumously awarded the Victoria Cross for heroic action during this battle. (Isurava Day is commemorated on 29 August and is included on one of our treks.) In 2009 around 6000 Australians followed in the footsteps of our courageous diggers and walked the Kokoda Track. Some did the walk for the physical challenge but an increasing number are taking time out to do the walk as a rite of passage in the quest for cultural identity. Kokoda stands firmly alongside Gallipoli as an icon of Australian history. |
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TRACK
OR TRAIL ? In 2006 we hosted two veterans who have been mates for 60 years: Ron Phillips and George Gwilliam (see left, being welcomed at Kokoda). They were gunners at Owers Corner in 1942. "We pumped 700 rounds into the Japanese position at Ioribaiwa Ridge until they retreated", they say. Historians put it that the Japanese had run out of supplies which made them "advance to the rear" but Ron and George reckon their shelling had a bit to do with it. They say they never heard it called it anything else but the Kokoda Track during their tour of duty in 1942. However over the years the term Kokoda Trail has also come into common use. The memorial gate at Owers Corner uses both. A field gun identical to the one used by George and Ron is now on display at Owers Corner (see left). Another of these was in the process of being dragged up Imita Ridge by a hardy gun crew in September 1942 to get a better shot at Ioribaiwa Ridge when it was discovered that the Japanese had retreated from that position. The gun is believed to have been dismantled and buried somewhere at the base of Imita Ridge near the old Uberi village site. |
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THE
WALK Walking the Kokoda Track takes between 5 and 10 days depending on walking speed, although marathon runners have done it in less than 24 hours non-stop. The trek is physically demanding but aesthetically rewarding. Magnificent mountain landscapes are visible from vantage points along the Track. There is great plant diversity although not much obvious animal life within 200 metres of the main Track due to frequent human presence. The walking distance is almost 100 km including a side trip to the Myola grasslands and much of this is steep climbs and descents which are punishing on the ankles and calf muscles going up, and tough on the knees coming down. The south-north walk beginning at Owers Corner is more challenging as the climb gradients are significantly steeper in this direction. During wet weather the Track is muddy and slippery. Flash flooding can make river crossings tricky. Guides use axes and machetes to cut logs from the undergrowth and tie these together with ropes to make a crude bridge. Then of course after crossing the torrent you have to dismantle your log bridge so that the next group of walkers is not denied the experience :) Most
of the heavy rainfall is in the wet season from December to March, but
here in the tropics there is regular rain throughout the year so there
is no month when it can be guaranteed to be dry. In June 2004 which was
supposed to be the middle of the dry season, there was a week of heaviest
rain on the Kokoda Track in 50 years. One of our trekking groups was
out there in the middle of it and they said it was very exciting (hmmm...) |
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TREKKING WITH
ECOTOURISM MELANESIA We find that our slower, "smell-the-roses" approach appeals to trekkers with a deeper interest in the Kokoda campaign and therefore our north-south package also features pre-trek battlefields tours around Buna, Gona, Popondetta and Kokoda. See our Kokoda Track 2010 open trek dates |
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OUR COMMUNITY-BASED
TOURISM FOCUS It is our company policy to support sustainable community-based ecotourism by not only "treading softly" on the environment and local culture, but also by creating employment and supporting local enterprise. We began operating small-group Kokoda treks in 2004 in response to requests from under-employed porters in Kokoda and under-patronised village guest houses along the Track. Previously most trekking companies launched their treks from Owers Corner, hired most of their porters from Sogeri, and tended to carry tents instead of sleeping in village guest houses. Over the last 6 years we have given preference to engaging porters from the remote Kokoda area and each year we design our trekking itineraries to maximise our patronage of the village guest houses, trekkers huts and private war relics collections ("museums") operated by locals along the Track. Recently the
commercial trekking industry along the Kokoda Track has become almost
cynical with some companies
operating
huge
treks comprising 50 trekkers
and
over 100
porters,
crashing
through
the jungle like a herd of elephants and flattening large areas of vegetation
where they camp. Participants on these military-style operations are
given imported 24-hour ration packs to eat every day, trekkers and porters
walk and
camp separately
and hardly talk to each other, and the whole experience is quite mechanical
and
anonymous. So many times our small-group trekkers have overheard the
same complaint from people walking with these larger trekking groups: In contrast, Ecotourism Melanesia takes a low-key approach, leading smaller groups that have less physical impact on the environment and place less pressure on the resources of the local villages. Our limit of 12 trekkers per open trek (although we will take up to 20 walkers for private / corporate groups) facilitates a more intimate and personal experience of the Kokoda Track and our trek groups are always warmly welcomed in the villages that we pass through. We are small and innocuous, we pay cash to the village people for the accommodation and food they provide to our groups ... and we clean up after ourselves. All our hard rubbish is carried out, unlike some other trekking groups who apparently see no harm in filling up the village garbage pits with tonnes of empty cans... |
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ACCOMMODATION
AND FOOD ON OUR TREKS Instead of taking the easy way out and doling out 24-hour ration packs, we engage village guest house operators to supply and cook local food for dinner, which we supplement with our own customised menu of camp food. Many of our trekkers say the village food most evenings is the high point of each walking day - a variety of tropical fruit and vegetables cooked in local style, with some savoury pasta or spicy noodles on the side for a little zest. When overnighting at bush campsites our porters prepare camp food such as tinned curry with coconut rice, spaghetti bolognese, fried tinned ham with dried peas and carrots and Deb powdered potato, and so on depending on what is available in Port Moresby supermarkets. The porters also cook porridge, damper or pancakes for breakfast which is washed down with real campfire billy tea. Trekkers often join in the meal preparation which makes for great social interaction with the porters. For lunch we provide packaged food including crackers, tinned tuna or salmon or ham, cheese, dried fruit and a bit of beef jerky to keep the carnivores happy. The porters prefer to eat their local-style food so don't be surprised if you see them tucking in to coconut rive instead of porridge at breakfast time, but everyone in the trek party is well fed and you won't need to bring your own food except for your favourite munchies for between meals. Fresh fruit is often available from little village markets as you walk along as well. Trekkers with special dietary requirements can be catered for. We'll either supply special food items for you or modify the whole trek menu to avoid your vices. Previously we have modified trek menus to accommodate vegetarians, diabetics and people with food allergies. |
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EQUIPMENT
AND PORTERAGE On the trek, each of our porters carries a backpack with a 20 kg load, comprising 10kg of food and equipment that we supply, plus 10 kg of a trekker's personal gear. This 10 kg of porterage is provided free to our trekkers as part of our trek packages. If you pack frugally and plan to carry a small day pack for your water bottle and Minties, you won't need to hire a personal porter to carry your gear at additional cost. However the 10 kg limit is strictly enforced and there will be a weigh-in when loading the porters backpacks. If you do plan to carry a day pack, keep it as light as possible (no more than 5 kg). It's a long hard walk and you'll enjoy it more if you're not teetering over backwards as you scramble up steep inclines with a heavy pack on your back. |
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OUR
GUIDES AND PORTERS |
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Our senior guide who leads most of our treks is PHILIP ARARI. Philip is a high school graduate, speaks fluent English and is trained in first aid and radio procedures. He has a good knowledge of the history of the Track and is able to explain what-happened-where as you walk along. Philip makes daily radio contact with Ecotourism Melanesia's office in Port Moresby while on-trek. Philip's wife and children stay home at Kokoda while he is away trekking, but they also keep in touch via radio messages. We have a pool of 30 porters that we use for our treks in various combinations. Most of our porters are from the Kokoda area and many of them are descendents of the WW2 carriers dubbed "fuzzy wuzzy angels". They are a mixture of personalities, some quiet and some outgoing, but all exhibit the typical humility of the Kokoda people. Notwithstanding, their humorous streak brings plenty of laughs along the way and their talent for singing with the ukulele provides for great entertainment around the campfire - the porters will teach you some local songs which you'll find yourself humming away long after you return home. Our porters all
speak and understand basic English. The main communication problem
(apart from Ocker humour which even Americans don't
understand) occurs when
Australians ask questions using the double negative format
or
statement-question
format. Papua New Guineans invariably
respond with what seems to be the wrong answer. Ecotourism Melanesia is dealing with this situation by (a) giving recruitment preference to porters who make a commitment not to spend their wages on alcohol (b) providing supervised accommodation at our company compound in Port Moresby during between-trek layovers, with an endless supply of Bruce Willis and Schwarzenegger videos to keep the guys occupied while they are resting up (c) applying a zero-alcohol policy for our porters before, during and immediately after our treks - to avoid generating the spark that starts the fire, so to speak. This may sound paternalistic but when we bring rural village men into the big city we believe we have a responsibility to both them and their families to look after them and send them home with a full pay packet and without HIV. We will appreciate your support of our policies on the ground, eg please don't invite porters back to your hotel for drinks after the trek. Only a small amount of alcohol is supplied for trekkers-only at the meals we host before and after the trek. |
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Military
history advisors
Major Bruce Copeland (Australian Army, retired) lives in Port Moresby and is a local expert on the Kokoda Campaign. Although now in his sixties he is still an active trekker and available to accompany trekking groups along the Track as military history advisor for an additional fee of AUD$200 per trekker.
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![]() Did you know? This famous photo was not taken on the Kokoda Track but just outside Siremi village near Buna. The fuzzy wuzzy angel was Raphael Oimbari, from Buna, and he was taking Private "Dick" Whittington to a field hospital. Did you also know the soldier was not Australian but American? |
Historical information As you walk (or climb, struggle, wince, mince or drag yourself) along the Track your group will become spread out. It's single file most of the way and the slightly faster walkers get ahead and the slow pokes form the "rear guard". Your group may only "congeal" a few times a day at defined rest stops or lunch break and again in the afternoon when you reach your overnight destination. This makes it quite difficult for your trek leader or a military history advisor to brief all the trekkers with historical information while walking along. Inevitably the people walking closest to the guide get all the information while the others walking in front or behind don't get the same benefit. Ecotourism Melanesia's answer to this problem has been to produce a a small booklet called the "TREKKER'S GUIDE TO THE KOKODA CAMPAIGN" written by Major Bruce Copeland our military history advisor. So even if he is not there in person on the Track with you, you can still benefit from his extensive knowledge of the Campaign. The booklet tells the story of Kokoda location by location as you walk along. We have printed two versions of the booklet, one for north-south and one for south-north. As you walk each section of the Track and stop at each village or vantage point, the booklet provides a few paragraphs to fill you in on what happened here, and points out things to look for such as relics, foxholes, memorial plaques or views of other battle sites. |
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2010
TREK PACKAGES
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Day 1: arrive Port Moresby, short city tour and overnight hotel Day 2: visit Day 3: tour Buna, Sanananda and Gona, overnight Popondetta (hotel) Day 5: Morning: look around Kokoda, Afternoon: hike to Deniki Day 6: hike to isurava Memorial Day 7: hike to Templetons Crossing Day 8: hike to Myola Junction Day 9: hike to Efogi Day 10: hike to Manari Day 11: hike to Naoro Day 12: hike to ua-Ule Creek Day 13: hike to Owers Corner, road transfer to Port Moresby, overnight hotel Day 14: fly out See full itinerary and prices for EM10A. See trek dates |
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Our 11-NIGHTS
SOUTH-NORTH "BASIC KOKODA" PACKAGE EM10B FROM
$3158 |
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To
meet the requirements of fitter walking groups we are also offering
a
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PACKAGE PRICES Discounts and surcharges
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TAILORED PRIVATE
TREK PACKAGES However
please note that our
treks always include guide, porters and supplies: we do
not offer "guide-only" services for walkers who want
to bring and carry their own supplies etc as we believe this
not only defeats our aim of providing employment for porters
but puts us
in an awkward
position as the
trek
"operator" if things go wrong due to D.I.Y. hikers bringing
insufficent supplies, inappropriate equipment etc or when somebody
has an
accident and there are no porters to carry him out. |
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FITNESS
REQUIREMENTS However it certainly is a tough walk, and most trekkers say it is the hardest (but most rewarding) thing they have done in their lives. You must undertake some serious uphill/downhill hiking training for a couple of months before you attempt this walk (see trip notes at bottom of itineraries for details). Due to the increasing number of trekkers getting into difficulties on the Kokoda Track in recent times (not ours, touch wood...), we now require that trekkers pass a cardiovascular stress test and get full medical clearance from their doctor before doing the walk. We will also ask you to sign a declaration that you have done the minimum recommended number of hours of pre-trek training . |
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GETTING
HERE PNG now has two international airlines operating services to Port Moresby from Sydney, Brisbane and Cairns. You can find flight schedules and make online bookings for Air Niugini at www.airniugini.com.pg and for Airlines PNG at www.apng.com. Some Air Niugini services are code-shared by Qantas Airlines PNG international services are operated by Pacific Blue |
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BOOKING PROCEDURE To secure a place on an open trek, or to book a private trek, select your preferred trek date from our Kokoda trek dates 2010 page (or choose your own preferred date in the case of private treks) and send us an e-mail with the names of proposed trekkers. We will then send you an invoice for the trek and you will need to remit 20% of the invoiced amount as your deposit. After payment of your deposit, your trek booking is secured. The balance of your payment is due 8 weeks (2 calendar months) before the trek begins. Booking conditions are detailed on our Kokoda Track booking information page and in our Kokoda trekking contract which you must download, print out, sign and return to us by fax or mail. To discuss your plans for walking the Kokoda Track, or to request an invoice for your trek, e-mail us: ecomel@online.net.pg |
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MORE
INFORMATION ON THE KOKODA TRACK Recommended
books Recommended
videos |
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CONTACT US |
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