TUFI
CULTURE FESTIVAL AND PAPUAN GULF MASK FESTIVAL TOUR 2009
- 10 nights Tufi, Kerema, Baimuru, Balimo (escorted tour
group, maximum 16 pax) This expeditionary tour is the first
of its kind to be offered in Papua New Guinea.
We sample three contrasting Papuan cultures (Tufi, Papuan Gulf, Gogodala) and
visit remote villages way off the tourist trail… off any trail in fact.
Although the disadvantage of small-group expeditionary travel is the inevitable
high overhead costs, the reward is the opportunity to observe and experience
the rapidly evolving lifestyles of artistic peoples that the rest of the world
has forgotten … or perhaps never discovered in the first place.
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NB
Dates and itinerary for 2009 have not yet been finalised but
will be available mid-October. Please put your name on our
mailing list if you would like to be advised as soon as the
2009 tour program is released. Below
is the itinerary for the 2008 tour. The 2009 itinerary will
be similar. 2009 tour cost not
yet available. |
Jackson's International Airport, Port Moresby

Tufi fjords
Tainabuna village guest house

Dinner

Typical village style accommodation
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DAY 1: FRI
06 JUNE 2008 PORT MORESBY / TUFI
Arrive Port Moresby on PX393 from Singapore at 0540 (or arrive the
day before on flights from Australia and overnight).
Ecotourism Melanesia staff will meet and greet you and transfer you
to the charter terminal for your one-hour charter flight to Tufi.
Tufi is a visually stunning area of PNG with unique fjordland geography.
The fjords were created thousands of years ago by fingers of lava running
into the seas from an erupting Mt Victory. The people of this area
are culturally rich with an exotic traditional dress and energetic
customary dances. The coral reefs around Tufi are pristine and easily
accessible.
At Tufi airfield we will be met by a delegation from our host village
and escorted on a walking tour of the Tufi government station, then
down to the waterfront. A speed boat is waiting to transfer us to Tainabuna
Village.
Tainabuna is a tiny village with just a few families, one of which
has built a guest house large enough to accommodate groups. The guest
house sits on a spit of beach apart from the main village and is open
to cool seas breezes. Large trees overhang the beach, perfect for relaxing
on the shaded sands. Bliss.
A late breakfast of tropical fruit and freshly made scones is served
and then we have the rest of the day to enjoy this delightful little
slice of paradise.
Available activities:
- walking tour of Tainabuna village and surrounds
- paddle your own outrigger canoe around the sheltered inlet
- walk along the beach, partly shaded by overhanging trees
- snorkel on the fringing reef
- line fishing from a canoe (great fun at night too)
- relax on the shaded beach right outside the guest house door
- sun yourself in a chair
- sit in the breeze-house up on the lookout point and watch canoes
and boats pass by on their way to/from Tufi
- go for a hike up on the ridges between the fjords (rainforest, grasslands,
birds and butterflies, great views of the coast, pass through hamlets
and greet the locals)
- let the experts paddle you on a canoe ride up the fjord to see basalt
cliffs and cascading waterfalls
You’ll fall in love with this place. The sheltered fjords are
wonderfully safe (no sharks, marine stingers or sea snakes), the water
is calm and warm (no dangerous currents or sink-holes) and flora and
fauna both above and below the waterline is spectacular.
Lunch and dinner are served when we are ready – lots of seafood
and local vegetables washed down with coconut juice.
After dinner our hosts will demonstrate some of their local dances,
songs and customs. All by the light of Tilly lamps and the bonfire – no
electricity here.
Overnight Tainabuna Village Guest House (twin-share dormitory-style
accommodation, sand floor, bedding and mosquito net supplied, bathe
in nearby stream, washbasin with jug of water in room, sit-down outhouse
toilets, complimentary fruit, coconut juice and tea/coffee available
24 hours, all meals and activities included).
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Traditional rope making, Tufi
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DAY 2: SAT 07 JUNE 2008
TUFI
06:00 Tropical breakfast and morning beach walk.
07:00 We board our speed boat for a 30-min transfer to Kofure Village,
the host village for the Tufi Culture Festival.
There will be a full day program of cultural performances, demonstrations
of traditional cultural practices, and preparation and serving of traditional
foods.
We return mid-afternoon to Tainabuna in time for some walking, paddling,
fishing, snorkelling or napping before nightfall.
Tonight is choir night and the village people will sing some of their
traditional and religious songs. The use of Melanesian harmony in their
singing is beautiful.
The children are delightful when they sing and do actions.
Overnight Tainabuna Village Guest House
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Kofure village, host of the Tufi Culture Festival

Tufi Dive Resort
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DAY 3: SUN 08 JUNE 2008
TUFI
06:00 Tropical breakfast and morning beach walk.
07:00 Today we respect the village people’s tradition of religious
attendance by laying low until church is out. We are of course welcome
to attend the morning service with our hosts: the Anglican Church is
the dominant denomination here.
Otherwise, sleep in, laze on the beach, sip tea and nibble on fruit,
climb to the ridge top for some morning photography, or write some
postcards home.
12:00 Light lunch and then transfer by speed boat to Kofure Village
for an afternoon of activities at the Tufi Culture Festival.
17:00 10 minute speed boat transfer to the Tufi Dive Resort.
This evening we will have dinner at the Tufi Dive Resort. A tropical
buffet is served and the bar is open. An interesting range of books
and souvenirs are available for sale at the reception desk. The swimming
pool is available for an evening dip and we will squeeze the Resort
for access to a day room that we can use to take a hot shower (yes!)
before returning to the village.
20:00 Speed boat transfer in the dark from Tufi back to Tainabuna.
Overnight Tainabuna Village Guest House
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Beach walk at Tufi

Tufi Airstrip

Arriving back in Port Moresby
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DAY 4: MON 09 JUNE 2008
TUFI / KEREMA
The Tufi Cultural Festival continues today but we shall sneak away
to new horizons.
06:00 Breakfast
06:30 Time for a last beach walk, swim, paddle, hill hike, snorkel
etc enjoying the beautiful tropical environment of Tufi (well, if it’s
not raining…)
09:00 Clean up, pack up and say farewell to our hosts: a goodbye song
from the village people will be obligatory.
09:30 Depart Tainabuna by speed boat for Tufi.
10:30 Check in at Tufi airfield for our charter flight
11:00 Depart Tufi
12:00 Arrive Port Moresby charter terminal and transfer to the domestic
terminal.
12:30 Check in for our flight to Kerema. (Packed lunch supplied by
Ecotourism Melanesia)
13:30 Airlines PNG flight CG360 departs for Kerema, arrives 14:25 (depending
on numbers, we may take a charter flight)
We are greeted by our hosts from Karama village and escorted down to
the foreshore where an open speed boat is waiting.
Water transfer from Kerema airfield to Karama Village (1 hour). On
arrival we check in at the Karama Village Guest House and our hosts
will show us around.
Karama is also a coastal village but located on a black sand beach
with mangrove labyrinths nearby. The inland is low and swampy, dominated
by stands of sago palm which yield the staple food, sago starch.
We will have time to explore the village environment before sundown,
when the mosquitoes come out and we will take refuge in the guest house
where the smoke from the cooking fires keeps insects at bay.
Overnight Karama Village Guest House (twin-share dormitory-style accommodation,
bark floor, bedding and mosquito nets supplied, bathe in nearby stream
or outdoor rainwater tank shower, washbasin with jug of water in room,
sit-down outhouse toilets, complimentary fruit, coconut juice and tea/coffee
available 24 hours, all meals and activities included)
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Papuan Gulf Mask Festival 2006
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DAY 5: TUE 10 JUNE 2008
PAPUAN GULF MASK FESTIVAL, KARAMA VILLAGE
06:00 Breakfast and morning walk on the beach
08:00 Day 1 of the Papuan Gulf Mask Festival. This will be only the
3rd time this festival has been held in recent times. Some government
officials will attend and there will be some speeches to welcome visitors
and open the event, then performances will get under way.
Most of the mask dances and tumbuan dances will take place on the black
sand beach. A variety of rarely-displayed Papuan masks will be displayed
and used in dances. There will be ample opportunities to mingle with
dancers, mask artisans, old people who know the traditional legends
and young people who are also enjoying them for the first time. It
is unlikely that any other tourists will be in attendance: only our
group.
At lunchtime we return to the guest house for lunch and rest.
The festival continues in the afternoon. Apart from the mask displays
there will also be sports events, choirs and string bands, children’s
activities and displays of traditional activities like making sago.
You can circulate around these activities, talk with individuals artisans
and performers about their dances, masks and village traditions, or
take a bush walk or beach walk (followed by a parade of village kids
longer than the tail of Halley’s Comet, no doubt…)
Overnight Karama Village Guest House
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Eveifiru villagers performing the jou ori mask dance
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DAY 6: WED
11 JUNE 2008 PAPUAN GULF MASK FESTIVAL, KARAMA VILLAGE / BAIMURU
06:00 Breakfast and morning walk on the beach
08:00 Day 2 of the Papuan Gulf Mask Festival.
12:00 Return to guest house for lunch, pack up and check out.
13:30 Depart Karama Village by speed boat for Kerema.
14:00 Check in at Kerema Hotel
15:00 Visit to Kerema Cultural Centre to view displays of Papuan Gulf
cultural artefacts
17:00 Walk around Kerema town, stop at the general store and return
to hotel.
18:00 Dinner at the hotel and retire for the evening
Overnight Hotel Kerema (2-star twin accommodation including dinner
and breakfast)
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1920s

Inside the long house

Frank Hurley purchasing artifacts from the people

One of Hurley's classic photograph taken inside the long house
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DAY 7: THU 12 JUNE 2008
KEREMA / BAIMURU
06:00 Check out of Hotel Kerema and walk down to the airstrip (baggage
follows in the back of a truck).
07:15 Airlines PNG flight from Kerema to Baimuru
07:45 Arrive Baimuru and walk to Baimuru Lodge for check-in and breakfast.
08:30 Today and tomorrow we go in search of Papuan Gulf culture and
art in the villages of the Pie River and Purari River delta. This is
the area visited by Australian explorer and photographer Frank Hurley
in the early 1920s. Hurley collected (and apparently stole) cultural
artefacts many of which ended up in museums, and took classic photographs
and film footage for his documentary “Pearls and Savages” which
was hailed as a sensation at the time. Hurley spent most time in the
Kaimare village area which we shall attempt to visit, depending on
the weather and the situation on the ground on the day.
Other villages in this area also feature a culture of men’s spirit
houses (long houses), dancing masks and painted ancestor boards. We
will travel in motorised longboats with local guides. At villages we
visit we will be welcomed and shown around the village, and the elders
will talk to us about their customs. There will be opportunities to
purchase cultural artefacts - these will mainly be modern creations
not aged pieces (although we may get lucky).
Our aim will be to see how the culture and lifestyle of the village
people in this area have changed since Hurley’s photographic
documentation in the early 1920s.
[Digitised copies of his works are available on the website of the
National Library of Australia's negative collection at <http://nla.gov.au/nla.pic-an11546686>.
To view the images from "Pearls and Savages", go to <http://www.nla.gov.au/catalogue/pictures/> and
search for the string as title/creator.]
We have three planned destinations for our two-days of expeditions:
- up the Pie River to Ipigo village
- up the Wame River ( a tributary of the Pie) to Kapuna Village
- down the Pie River to its estuary where Kaimare Island and Kaimare
village are located.
Overnight Baimuru Lodge (all meals included).
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Baimuru rvier transport
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DAY 8: FRI 13 JUNE 2008
BAIMURU
Our second day of expeditions by motorised longboat in the Pie River
area, as outlined above.
Overnight Baimuru Lodge (all meals included
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Gogodala canoe race Balimo

Balimo kundu dancers displaying their skills

Balimo ladie dancers with split cane sticks
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DAY 9: SAT 14 JUNE 2008
BAIMURU / BALIMO
08:00 Breakfast and check out of Baimuru Lodge. Walk to airstrip.
10:30 Board Airlines PNG flight to Balimo via Kikori.
12:00 Arrive Balimo and walk from airstrip to Balimo Guest House for
check-in and lunch.
Balimo is the district centre for the Gogodala people. It comprises
a government office, a small hospital run by the Baptist mission, and
a few trade stores. The Gogodala people live in surrounding villages.
The Gogodala tribe live in an aquatic environment; for much of the
year their lands and villages are flooded and they move about by canoe.
The Gogodala have a rich cultural tradition centred on animistic religious
beliefs. Each clan has an animal totem and produces artifacts which
depict the totem: masks, figurines, weapons and even cooking implements.
The Gogodala artistic style is unique in Papua New Guinea and Gogodala
artifacts are sought-after in the handicraft shops of Port Moresby.
13:00 Tour Gogodala Cultural Centre and Long House, see war canoe under
construction and witness Gogodala cultural performance. Water transfer
to local village to visit village homes and see totems in situ.
18:00 Dinner and retire.
Overnight Balimo Guest House

Very old king size hand drum,
Balimo
Nobody knows who made it, long ago.
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Touching down at Port Moresby Jacksons Airport
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DAY 10: SUN 15 JUNE 2008
BALIMO / PORT MORESBY
06:00 Breakfast
06:30 Water transport to another local village for brief tour.
11:00 Wait at the Balimo airstrip for diverted Airlines PNG flight
to Port Moresby via Kikori and Kerema, arriving 15:00 approx. If time
allows, a visit to the PNG Art artifacts warehouse to purchase any
additional items of interest. (Closes at 16:30)
Transfer to Gateway Hotel and check in.
Tonight we enjoy a farewell dinner together and a slide show of photos
taken on the trip.
Overnight Gateway Hotel (twin-share premier room, includes buffet dinner
and drinks, full breakfast)
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Bomana War Cemetery
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DAY
11: MON 16 JUNE 2008 PORT MORESBY / FLY OUT
Today we farewell you as you depart on your international flight:
PX90/QF384 departs for Cairns at 09:30
CG200 departs for Brisbane at 14:00
PX392 departs for Singapore at 15:30
CG100 departs for Cairns at 17:00
If you are booked on an afternoon flight we will provide a half-day
tour of Port Moresby including city sights, the national museum and
art gallery, the Bomana War Cemetery and/or a visit to a peri-urban
village.
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