EM8 INTREPID BIRDING EXPEDITION This trip is designed for
small groups of bird watchers who have already been around the
traps of PNG’s better-known
birding locations and are prepared to rough it and hoof it a little
in order
to explore some more remote bird habitats. The expedition is fully resourced with all bird guides, equipment and catering supplied at each location. Although the package is unescorted (ie there is no company rep to travel with you throughout the tour), we have a local tour coordinator at each destination (Goroka, Wau, Alotau and Kikori) who makes all the local arrangements. The local tour coordinator leads that leg of the expedition together with a local bird guide and sufficient porters to carry all the gear. The overall program is coordinated and monitored from our Port Moresby office and we provide a mobile satellite phone that enables you to keep in touch. Equipment and supplies are packed in Port Moresby for each sector of the expedition and forwarded to our local tour coordinator at each location ahead of your arrival. The 20 nights itinerary can
be truncated to 13 nights by skipping the Normanby Island trip – this is quoted separately below.
Both the 20 nights and 13 nights itineraries will connect with Air
Niugini’s weekly flights from Singapore and other Asian destinations,
as well as daily flights from Australia. Other variations of this
program such as 13 nights Crater Mountain with Normanby Island or
13 nights Lakekamu Basin with Normanby Island are possible but require
customised quotations. |
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GENERIC ITINERARY DAY 1: PORT MORESBY
/ GOROKA The half day tour of Goroka
begins with a familiarisation drive around Goroka and surrounds,
then
you’ll stop and visit the
JK McCarthy Museum of highlands culture, and the Raun Raun drama
theatre where you will be treated to a short performance of a social
awareness skit on HIV/AIDS or domestic violence. Venturing further
out of town you’ll pay a visit to a smallholder coffee block
and learn how coffee underpins the rural economy in the highlands. 18:00 Return to hotel Overnight Bird of Paradise Hotel, Goroka (premier room, accommodation only). NB Dinner and breakfast at this hotel are not included in the tour package (ie these meals are pay-as-you-go or PAYG – the hotel accepts major credit cards, travellers cheques and local currency). The hotel has two eateries - a bistro/pizzeria with daily specials and a formal restaurant with a la carte dining on weekdays and a full buffet on weekends. There is a good Chinese restaurant across the street. Groceries for self-catering can be purchased from the small supermarket opposite the hotel which closes at 18:30. |
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2: GOROKA / CRATER MOUNTAIN On arrival, settle in at the Heroana village guest house and then take your first birding foray into the forest. Crater Mountain Wildlife
Management Area (6o35’S 145o 05’E) is a spectacular montane environment, a series of peaks around an
ancient volcanic caldera on the border of the Eastern Highlands and
Chimbu provinces. The WMA is only sparsely populated - the local
tribes people live in tiny hamlets on scattered ridge tops and have
little impact on the huge area of lush sub-tropical rainforest in
the valleys that surround them. Crater Mountain WMA is located in a high-rainfall belt that stretches across the southern side of the central ranges to Tabubil. Regardless of the time of year you can expect daily downpours here so bring a novel to read because the actual dry time available for birding may be as little as half of what is programmed here. Bird list for Crater
Mountain (still being compiled – see “Birds
of New Guinea”): Overnight Heroana village guest house (includes meals – a mixture
of local food and imported supplies, and clean drinking water). Sleeping
bags and all other additional equipment (lamps, bed nets etc) are
also supplied. |
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3: CRATER MOUNTAIN Overnight Heroana village guest house (includes meals) |
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4: CRATER MOUNTAIN Overnight bush hut at crater lake (includes camp-style meals) |
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5: CRATER MOUNTAIN Overnight bush hut at crater lake (includes camp-style meals) |
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6: CRATER MOUNTAIN Overnight Maimafu village guest house (includes meals) |
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7: CRATER MOUNTAIN Full day birding around Maimafu. This is also a buffer day in case your hike from the crater lake is slowed due to wet weather L or extremely good birding J Overnight Maimafu village guest house (includes meals) |
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8: CRATER MOUNTAIN / GOROKA / BULOLO 08:00 (approx) your MAF flight departs Maimafu for Goroka, arriving late morning (it may not be a direct flight if there are stops at other rural airstrips – you may even transit Heroana again). On arrival in Goroka you will transfer to the hotel where a day room is made available for you to take a hot shower and feel human again J before taking lunch in the bistro/pizzeria (included). 13:00 Commence your road transfer from Goroka to Wau/Bulolo. This is a six hour drive so it will be important to depart by 1pm at the latest in order to avoid driving at night. Depending on the size of your group you’ll travel by 4WD double-cab light utility with your gear in the back, or a 15-seater mini bus. You’ll be accompanied by a driver, driver’s assistant, and our Goroka-based tour coordinator. 1900 Arrive Bulolo and check in at Pine Lodge, a 3 star hotel servicing mainly the employees and contractors of Harmony Gold which has the mining lease for the nearby Hidden Valley gold deposit. Overnight Pine Lodge, Bulolo (includes dinner and breakfast) |
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9: BULOLO / WAU / LAKEKAMU BASIN (TEKADU) 0600 Breakfast 0700 Check out of Pine Lodge and transfer by road only 20 minutes to Wau. (Wau is a larger town than Bulolo but without the advantage of a decent hotel like Pine Lodge). At Wau airstrip, a chartered light aircraft is waiting to fly you, your guide and your camping supplies over the Owen Stanley Range and roughly parallel with the less-than-famous Bulldog Track down to the tiny village of Tekadu at an altitude of about 800 metres. This village is located adjacent to the Avi Avi River which is the dominant water course in this area. On arrival at Tekadu, leave your gear at the village guest house and spend the rest of the day birding along the banks of the Avi Avi river. Overnight village guest house, Tekadu (includes local-style food and camp rations). The standard of the village guest house will be similar to Heroana and Maimafu at Crater Mountain. Local food provided includes sago, cassava, sweet potato, taro, cooked bananas, yams and a variety of greens. The Lakekamu Basin is a 2500 square kilometre area of pristine alluvial
rainforest that includes parts of the inland mountains of Morobe
province and vast expanses of swamp lowland plains of the Gulf province.
The Basin is a biodiversity hotspot that serves as a refuge for numerous
threatened and endemic species of plants and animals. Efforts are
being made to protect the area under an integrated conservation and
development project similar to Crater Mountain, supported by Conservation
International. The main thrust of the project is to promote sustainable
socio-economic opportunities for the locals while conserving the
natural resources. Bird list
for Lakekamu Basin (still being compiled – see “Birds
of New Guinea”): |
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10: LAKEKAMU BASIN (KAKORO) Today a full day bird-a-thon from Tekadu to Kakoro, a small gold mining village. The footpath between the two villages is not well trodden because the human population is sparse in this area and there is not much foot traffic. The bird life along the foot track is mainly undisturbed. Normally a three to four hour walk, your guide will lead a leisurely pace with many stops for observing bird species. Other animals like wallabies and cuscus can be seen. Allow some down-time for rainfall. Overnight Kakoro Guest House (marginally more upmarket than Tekadu,
includes meals) |
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11: LAKEKAMU BASIN (KAKORO) Full day birding around Kakoro. Local guides know nesting spots that they will lead you to. Allow some down-time for rainfall. Overnight Kakoro Guest House (marginally more upmarket than Tekadu,
includes meals) |
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12: LAKEKAMU BASIN (KUNIMAIPA RIVER) Today, board a local style “banana boat” (a large fibreglass dinghy with an outboard motor) and commence the river journey downstream, with one overnight camp en route to study river birds. From Kakoro, your boat follows the Kunimaipa River downstream to its confluence with the Tiveri River. The combined Tiveri and Kunimaipa Rivers form the Lakekamu River down to the sea. Today after only 2 hours boating you’ll disembark at the Kurai Hills, a ridge of low hills (1000m) that run parallel to the Kunimaipa River just before its junction with the Tiveri River. The Kurai Hills are a contrast to the rest of the surrounding terrain which is flat floodplains. Here you will spend the rest of the day bird watching in two distinct habitats: riverine and wooded hills. The area is uninhabited and pristine. Overnight riverside camp, Kunimaipa River. |
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13: LAKEKAMU BASIN / PORT MORESBY After early morning birding, board your banana boat again for a fairly long run (5 hours) downstream to the Port Moresby-Malalaua highway at Terapo Bridge, arriving mid afternoon. Disembark from your banana boat, farewell your Lakekamu Basin guides and board a waiting vehicle for the drive to Port Moresby (3 hours). Overnight Gateway Hotel, Port Moresby (room only) |
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14: PORT MORESBY / ALOTAU / NORMANBY ISLAND If truncating the tour to 13 nights, today you will fly out of Port Moresby to your international destination. If you are booked on an afternoon departure, a morning bird watching trip to Variarata National Park (see Day 21) or Goldie River (see Day 24) can be arranged. 0430 Transfer on the hotel shuttle bus to the domestic terminal. 1400 Arrive Sewa Bay – you will be treated to a traditional sing-sing welcome and have time to settle in at Sibonai village guest house before taking an afternoon familiarisation walk around the area to get your bearings. Overnight Sibonai Guest House, Sewa Bay, Normanby Island (includes meals) Normanby Island, part of the D’Entrecasteaux group, is the closest large island to Alotau. Sewa Bay, on the western coast of Normanby, is a natural harbour with diverse marine and terrestrial bird species. Sibonai village in Sewa Bay has a basic guest for visitors and bird watching excursions are based here. Local guides have received some training in species identification from visiting bird experts. Bird list for Normanby Island (compiled by Thane Pratt, co-author
of Birds of New Guinea, in 2003): |
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15: NORMANBY ISLAND Birding around Sewa Bay – hillside fruit & vegetable gardens (honeyeaters etc) Overnight Sibonai Guest House, Sewa Bay, Normanby Island (includes
meals) |
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16: NORMANBY ISLAND Birding around Sewa Bay – study birds in the coastal mangroves and beach areas (on foot and by paddle canoe) Overnight Sibonai Guest House, Sewa Bay, Normanby Island (includes
meals) |
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17: NORMANBY ISLAND Birding around Sewa Bay – paddle out to offshore islets to view sea bird nesting sites Overnight Sibonai Guest House, Sewa Bay, Normanby Island (includes
meals) |
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18: NORMANBY ISLAND Birding around Sewa Bay – overnight bird-a-thon around Mt Normanby (3000m) (ground birds, birds of paradise etc) Overnight forest hut, Mt Normanby slopes |
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19: NORMANBY ISLAND Birding around Sewa Bay – bird-a-thon concludes at Sibonai Overnight Sibonai Guest House, Sewa Bay, Normanby Island (includes meals) |
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20: NORMANBY ISLAND / ALOTAU / PORT MORESBY 0600 Depart Sibonai by small boat (workboat or outboard banana boat). 1200 Arrive Alotau and disembark at Napatana Beach, walk 2 minutes to Napatana Lodge. A day room is provided at Napatana Lodge for you to have a hot shower and change your clothes. Have some lunch at the Lodge (included). You’ll then have a few hours at leisure at Napatana Lodge to enjoy the tropical gardens, sit on the beach, engage in conversation with the cockatoos and hornbills which roam free in the grounds, or snooze before transferring to the airport for your afternoon flight to Port Moresby. Overnight Gateway Hotel, Port Moresby (room only) |
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21: PORT MORESBY / FLY OUT or
extend to Kikori delta 0400 Depart on a morning birding excursion with local bird guide to Variarata National Park. Includes packed breakfast and picnic lunch. Variarata National Park is located on the Sogeri Plateau above Port Moresby. A 45 minute drive up the winding main road from the city brings you to the turnoff to the national park which is another 30 minutes along sealed feeder road. The park and the surrounding country is set on a region of uplifted igneous intrusive rock complexes which rises to an elevation of 800-1000m above sea-level, and is like a natural border marking where the dry savannah scrublands of coastal Port Moresby end, and the mid-montane forests and grasslands of the Sogeri plateau begin. Birdlife at Variarata is prolific. There is a mixture of upland as well as lowland species. There are side tracks that lead to particular spots where certain types of birds can be observed. The splendid Raggiana birds of paradise can be observed performing their conspicuous courtship dance from one of these side-tracks. Bird list for Variarata National Park: Return to the city in time to check in for your international
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| OR EXTEND TO KIKORI DELTA DAY 21: PORT MORESBY
/ KIKORI Kikori is an emerging Ecotourism
destination unique in Papua New Guinea. In size, the Kikori River
delta is second only to
the Fly
River delta and consists of a myriad of small mud, grass and
mangrove islands separated by slow–moving fingers of outflow
from the Kikori River, which has its origins in the Southern
Highlands.
The delta is a supercharged nursery for all manner of fish, crabs,
birds and crocodiles. Fishing in quiet backwaters for barramundi,
mangrove jack and black bass is superb here and edible mud crabs
abound. With so much fish available in the shallow water, there
is a huge bird population including herons, cranes, hornbills,
parrots, cassowaries, cockatoos and honeyeaters.
Overnight Delta Lodge, Kikori (includes all meals) |
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22: KIKORI (SIREBI RIVER SAFARI) This excursion can be taken as a day trip or an overnight camping trip. If you make it a day trip your boat will turn back at midday and commence the faster journey downstream back to Kikori, arriving (maybe wet!) in the late afternoon. If you would like to make it an overnight trip your guide can take you much further upstream, away from civilisation and into the most pristine areas. If overnighting you will each sleep in your own one-man tent erected inside a village hut. The tent is impervious to insects. Inflatable mattress, sleeping bag and other basic camping equipment are supplied. Catering is organised by Delta Lodge, but there will be an opportunity to try village foods such as sago, fruit and dried fish. Two or three guides from Delta Lodge will accompany you and overnight with you in the village. Overnight Delta Lodge OR Sirebi River camp. Includes set-menu or camp-style meals. The
Sirebi River is a biodiversity hotspot in a remote area with
very few isolated villages. Your open motor dinghy will take you
up the Kikori River for about one hour to Waira village which is
located at the confluence of the Kikori and Sirebi rivers. Turning
off to the right into the Sirebi River your motor boat will take
you far upstream to a point where lowland savannah gives way to
verdant rainforest which lines the high river banks. Looking up
from your vantage point in the middle of the river you are able
to observe a rich kaleidoscope of flora and fauna that is rarely
disturbed by the presence of humans, guaranteed to be unlike anything
you have never seen before. The Sirebi River is one of the last
untouched river systems in Papua New Guinea and Ecotourism Melanesia
is the only tour company to have made any moves to bring visitors
into the area. |
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23: KIKORI / PORT MORESBY 0600 Break camp and commence return journey down the Sirebi River. (If you have overnighted at Delta Lodge, a half day birding excursion will be provided instead). 1100 Arrive back at Delta Lodge in time for lunch. Afternoon flight from Kikori to Port Moresby via Kerema (departure time varies with day of the week). On arrival in Port Moresby, transfer to your hotel. Overnight Gateway Hotel, Port Moresby (room only) |
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24: PORT MORESBY / FLY OUT Return to the airport in time to check in for your international flight. |