| EM208 – SEPIK
CROCODILE FESTIVAL TOUR - MARCH 2008 ESCORTED SMALL GROUP TOUR FOR INDEPENDENT TRAVELLERS 13 nights ex-Port Moresby – group size minimum 6 maximum 13 pax Tour escort: Aaron Hayes, Director of Ecotourism Melanesia. ABOUT THIS TOUR: This small group tour provides an opportunity for visitors to attend a rural festival crowded by locals rather than tourists. The Sepik Crocodile Festival is an initiative of WWF (World Wide Fund for Nature) as part of its sustainable development programs being carried out in the Sepik River basin, which include the establishment of protected areas, sustainable harvest of freshwater and forest species, and the development of ecotourism. The festival draws particular attention to the plight of the two species of crocodile prevalent in the Sepik area: the common saltwater crocodile (Crocodilus porosus) and the New Guinea freshwater crocodile (Crocodilus novaeguineas). These days most of the crocodile population inhabits remote tributaries of the Sepik that are furthest from their major predator: humans. It is unusual to see crocodiles along the main human-occupied areas of the Sepik River proper these days, as the constant passage of motorised dinghies and other small boats has scared them back into more remote areas. Very large crocodiles are rare these days and no “monster man-eaters” have been caught in the past 10 years. Crocodiles play a major part in the cultural heritage of the Sepik people. Crocodiles are animal totems symbolising strength and power. In the Middle Sepik crocodile cult villages of Yentchen, Palembei and Kanganaman, the attributes of the crocodile are so envied that the men even try to make themselves look like crocodiles. The initiation of boys into adulthood involves a painful scarification ritual during which dozens of small cuts are made all over the back from shoulders to hips, and pockets of skin are lifted away from the flesh and filled with charcoal which, upon healing, leaves raised scars that resemble the bumpy back of the crocodile. Such initiations are carried out in secret only once or twice a year and for modesty reasons outsiders are not normally allowed to witness the cutting ceremony. Everywhere in the Sepik River basin, the crocodile is an occasional source of protein for the village diet, and crocodile skins are sold for cash to outside buyers. The collecting of crocodile eggs in the wild and hatching them in crocodile “farms” is an ongoing threat to the wild population. WWF is educating locals about sustainable harvesting of wildlife resources and encouraging them to turn to alternative sources of income such as ecotourism. The Sepik Crocodile Festival occurs the first weekend in March at Ambunti on the Upper Sepik where WWF’s conservation activities are focused. The Crocodile Festival celebrates the role of the crocodile in lives of the Sepik people and also provides a venue for WWF to conduct conservation awareness with locals who flood in to Ambunti from surrounding villages for the festival. Village groups will perform crocodile-themed traditional dances and dramas. Sepik handicrafts will be for sale, especially crocodile carvings and crocodile tooth necklaces of course. The pride and joy of your souvenir collection will be a crocodile-head canoe prow if you can buy one. Sepik canoes normally have an animal totem carved into the prow and when the canoe becomes old or develops unpatchable leaks the prow is sometimes cut off with a chainsaw or axe and sold as a souvenir (about 40 centimetres long by 20 centimetres wide, and weighing about 3kg). Of course, it’s not really a tourist souvenir but a genuine cultural artifact. Fumigation and special packing will be required if you want to take a canoe prow home with you. Ambunti is a district “station” which means it is a
pindrop-quiet little township with a number of small government offices,
a few small shops and churches, an airfield and one or two minor
cottage industries. There are no streets, just grassy lanes between
houses and other buildings that are used by a few tractors with open
trailers for hauling loads around the station – the rest of
the time, people walk because nowhere is far from anywhere at Ambunti
station. The township normally seems asleep during the hot days,
but comes alive in the late afternoon when various football games
sprout on the airstrip runway and other open spaces and draw small
social crowds. There is a small “hotel” called Ambunti
Lodge which caters for tourists, plus a few other little guest houses
run by the churches and other locals. Our tour group will stay at
one of the latter, or billets in private homes, as available. Our
tour group will aim to be inconspicuous and go with the flow of the
festival. At the festival you will mingle with locals and make some
lifelong friends. | |
 Aerial view of Wewak town, located on a promontory |
DAY
1: Tuesday 03 March 2009 PORT MORESBY / WEWAK Arrive Port Moresby on a morning or early afternoon flight from Singapore, Brisbane or Cairns. Ecotourism Melanesia staff will meet you and assist you to join the other members of the tour groups connecting on to Air Niugini’s afternoon flight to Wewak PX920 departing 1520 arriving 1710. On arrival in Wewak, we take a short orientation drive around town and check in at our hotel. Overnight In Wewak Boutique Hotel (includes breakfast) |
 Ambunti station and airfield |
DAY
2: Wednesday 04 March WEWAK / AMBUNTI 0600: breakfast 0700: transfer to Wewak airport for charter flight or diversion flight to Ambunti 0900: arrive Ambunti and walk to our local guest house. We spend the rest of today enjoying exploring Ambunti station, enjoying the relaxed ambience of this green oasis on the banks of the muddy Sepik, and taking a leisurely hike along the river bank to the first satellite village. Overnight local guest house, Ambunti
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3: Thursday 05 March AMBUNTI: Upper Sepik villages Day trip by motorised canoe to Yambon and Yessan villages upstream from Ambunti. Overnight local guest house, Ambunti |
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4: Friday 06 March AMBUNTI: Wagu Lakes Day trip by motor canoe to the Wagu Lakes for birdwatching and an optional jungle hike. Overnight local guest house, Ambunti |
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5: Saturday 07 March AMBUNTI: crocodile festival Attend the crocodile festival activites – you can stick with our guide or move around by yourself, in which case you will quickly bump into somebody you met at Yambon, Yessan or Wagu Lakes who will proudly shepherd you around for the day. For lunch today, buy some delicious local fare from the various food stalls. Overnight local guest house, Ambunti
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 Motorised Sepik canoe travel |
DAY
6: Sunday 08 March AMBUNTI / MIDDLE SEPIK Morning: attend church with the Ambunti locals, have a quiet morning at the guest house or attend any wrap-up festival activities. After lunch, depart by fast motor canoe downstream to Pagwi (the border of Upper Sepik and Middle Sepik), stop for a look at the small crocodile farm and then continue on to the Middle Sepik arriving late afternoon. Overnight Kanganaman village guest house
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 Yentchen crocodile dance |
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7: Monday 09 March MIDDLE SEPIK Visit the crocodile cult villages of Kanganaman, Yentchen and Palembei. Overnight Kanganaman village guest house |
 MAF (Mission Aviation Fellowship) Twin Otter charter aircraft |
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8: Tuesday 10 March MIDDLE SEPIK / WEWAK Motor downstream to Timbunke mission station, stopping at Mindibit and Angriman villages along the way. From Timbunke, we fly out early afternoon on a charter flight to Wewak. Free afternoon at Windjammer Beach Hotel or artifact shopping at Wewak market. Overnight Windjammer Beach Hotel (includes dinner and breakfast) |
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9: Wednesday 11 March WEWAK ISLANDS 0700: breakfast 0800: embark by open speed boat for the Wewak Islands. First stop 45 minutes from the mainland is idyllic Muschu Island which is surrounded by white sandy beaches and criss-crossed by walking tracks through the light rainforest that covers the island. Muschu has only a small human population because the availability of fresh water is limited. Today we base ourselves at a village guest house close to the beach, and activities include beach walking, rainforest nature walks, swimming and snorkelling in the sea. For those who like fishing, our motor boat is with us for the day and is available for trolling the deeps or hand-lining over the reef. Surely we’ll catch something for our lunch! Late afternoon we continue another 30 minutes by boat to Kairiru Island, the biggest of the Wewak Islands group. Kairiru is an extinct volcano and has a crater lake at the top. The island is cover in thick jungle and was used by the Japanese as a forward observation post in WW2 to warn their garrison at Wewak of inbound American bombers from the north. On arrival at Shagur village the people will put on a big welcome sinigsing and drama performance of the village legends (very funny). Overnight Polen Guest House, Kairiru Island |
 Villagers being called together for a singsing, Kairiru Island |
DAY
10: Thursday 12 March WEWAK ISLANDS Full day to explore Kairiru Island including old Japanese base at St John, waterfalls, seaside caves, hot springs at Victoria Bay. Late afternoon water transfer back to the mainland. The boat pulls right up on Windjammer Beach and you can walk straight to your room. Overnight Windjammer Beach Hotel, Wewak |
 Exotic traditional dress, Simbai featuring nose ornaments and hand drums |
DAY
11: Friday 13 March WEWAK / MADANG Our early morning Air Niugini flight from Wewak (PX927) connects with our light aircraft charter to Simbai. The aircraft can only take 5 passengers so will operate hourly shuttles till we have transferred everyone. On arrival at Simbai airstrip we are met by our local guide with a few extra guys to help carry bags. From the airstrip it is a 30 minute walk to the Kalam Guest House. Today we explore the tiny Simbai government outpost, visit the little Kalam Culture Centre which has displays of traditional tribal artifacts, and walk to a couple of the satellite villages within an hour’s hiking from Simbai. This will be an opportunity to come face to face with the fascinating Kalam tribal culture. Tonight, the culture will come alive as a traditional Kalam tribal sing-sing is be held. Overnight Kalam Guest House, Simbai. |
 Exotic traditional dress, Simbai featuring green beetle sheel head dress |
DAY
12: Saturday 14 March SIMBAI Today there is a choice of activities depending on your interests and your hiking ability. If you are fit to hike for about 4 hours you will take a scenic hike through some village hamlets a little further afield, stopping to meet and talk to locals you meet on the way. There will be spontaneous opportunities to observe or join in with locals doing their gardening, hunting, building houses and other day to day activities. If you are not much of a hiker there is plenty to see around Simbai and its nearby satellite hamlets. Take a short walk into the forest with your guide who will point out wild orchids, medicinal plants and perhaps a shy tree kangaroo or cuscus. Sit with village women as they prepare traditional foods, and let the men show you their “bride price” heirlooms, and demonstrate how they make their trademark green beetle head-dresses. Overnight Kalam Guest House, Simbai. |
 Bilbil pottery village, Madang |
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13: Sunday 15 March SIMBAI / MADANG This morning we return by charter flight from Simbai to Madang and spend the rest of the day exploring Madang’s various attractions including the Balek wildlife sanctuary and sulphur caves where parts of the Pierce Brosnan movie “Robinson Crusoe” was filmed (a PNG actor played the part of Man Friday). We also visit the historical Alexishafen Mission and take a trip to a Madang coastal village. Overnight Madang Lodge, includes farewell dinner only – pay as you go if you would like early breakfast |
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14: Monday 16 March MADANG / PORT MORESBY This morning we check in at the Madang airport around 5.30am for the early flight to Port Moresby PX111 departing 0715 and arriving 0815. On arrival at Port Moresby airport you will receive a packed brunch from our staff. Today you will connect on to your international flight to Singapore or Australia, or put in place your own alternative arrangements for extending your stay in Papua New Guinea. Our staff will be on hand to assist you with your international flight connection and farewell you. If you have time to kill before your outbound flight, we will be happy to help you fill in the time with some souvenir shopping or sightseeing around Port Moresby city. |
