EM205
2010 MOROBE SHOW TOUR – 12-25 OCTOBER 2010
13 nights Madang, Wewak, Kairiru Island, Middle Sepik, Simbai, Mt Hagen, Goroka, Lae (Morobe Show) Fully escorted sign-up small group soft adventure tour, minimum 8 maximum 16 pax. The
tour program will commence with some brief sightseeing in Madang,
PNG’s “tourist town” so
named because it attracts many tourists to its beautiful foreshores,
gardens and satellite
villages. A charter flight from the Sepik will bring us to Simbai, a remote
mountainous district with no roads in or out, where the people of
the Kalam tribe still live a primitive subsistence lifestyle and
maintain an ancient tribal culture featuring elaborate head-dresses
that are so large they require an internal frame to support them. At Goroka we will stop to explore the eastern highlands culture
including a visit to the Asaro mudmen and the Kemase village ossuary
where children dressed only in moss and bark coverings out of respect
for their ancestors will lead us into the cave where the skulls and
bones of the dead are stored and revered. The Morobe Show is one of Papua New Guinea’s major annual festivals. The weekend event begins with a full day of agricultural and trade displays and awarding of prizes to the growers of the biggest and best of everything – from coffee to cattle to cut flowers. This is a marvellous opportunity to view a cross section of rural commerce in contemporary Papua New Guinea and rub shoulders with the locals who flood into town to show their wares and to see what everybody else is making, growing and selling. The second day of the show, known as the Morobe Sing-sing, features traditional dancing performances by over 60 sing-sing groups from all over Papua New Guinea. This line-up is second only to the Mt Hagen Show in size and variety, attracting cultural groups from as far away as Bougainville and the Trobriand Islands to compete for prizes. The local crowd of 50,000 flocks in mainly from the villages around Lae, down the highway from the Highlands provinces, and across from Madang. In contrast, less than 100 overseas visitors attended the last Morobe Show, so it is definitely a “local” festival and not created for tourists. There are also health awareness programs, sideshow alley and all manner of other activities at the Show which make it the highlight of the annual event calendar for the people of Morobe Province and their capital city, Lae. Some very remote villagers come to town only once a year, for the Show, so you will see quite a kaleidoscope of faces just in the spectator crowd, even before you turn your attention to the sing-sing arena. Tourists and locals with cameras are given special seats with the best views, and you will also have permission to enter the performance arena to take close-ups of the dancers. We will arrive early to watch the performers dressing up in their traditional finery and applying their body paints and ornaments before the sing-sing. |
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2010
ITINERARY DAY 1: TUE 12 OCT 2010 PORT MORESBY / MADANG Arrive Port Moresby and connect through to Madang. See www.airniugini.com.pg or www.apng.com for details of international flights arriving today from Cairns and Singapore (the flight from Singapore departs on the evening of Monday 11 October and arrives early Tuesday morning in Port Moresby). On arrival in Port Moresby Ecotourism Melanesia staff will greet you with a smile and a surprise gift and you will be transferred to check in for your connecting flight to Madang. If time allows between flights, our staff will take you on a complimentary sightseeing tour of Port Moresby. NB Your domestic air tickets are provided by Ecotourism Melanesia as part of the tour package and will be delivered to you on arrival or e-mailed in advance. On arrival in Madang, you will be met by our tour escort and transfer 15 minutes to your hotel. If you arrive in Madang on an early flight our local guide will be available to take you on a walking tour of the Coastwatchers Lighthouse and foreshore area near the hotel, and as far as the town markets. Overnight Coastwatchers Hotel, Madang |
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DAY 2: WED 13 OCT MADANG
/ WEWAK Overnight In-Wewak Boutique Hotel, Wewak |
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DAY
3: THU 14 OCT WEWAK / KAIRIRU ISLAND Muschu is a luscious tropical isle, flat and low and covered in coconut plantations and light rainforest. The island is fringed with beautiful white sandy beaches and colourful coral reefs. We will spend about 2 hours at Muschu Island, enough time for some swimming and snorkelling, beachcombing or a stroll through the coconut plantations. Snorkelling masks are provided. Bottled water, fresh drinking coconuts and fruit are provided. Don’t forget to ask our hosts for a demonstration of climbing a coconut tree! Late morning we depart Muschu and continue further offshore to Kairiu Island. Unlike Muschu, Kairiru Is a volcanic island with mountainous interior and small crater lake at the summit. The island takes about 1 hour to circumnavigate by speed boat, but today we will travel around only the east side of the island to get to Shagur village on the seaward (north) side of Kairiru Island. From Shagur you cannot see the PNG mainland – only the Bismarck Sea to the north. At Shagur village the people will await us with an enthusiastic
traditional welcome and a tropical feast for lunch. Beginning mid-afternoon and continuing into the evening, we will be treated to a cultural entertainment extravaganza with all manner of traditional singing, dancing and drama skits portraying the island legends – be prepared to split your sides over some great slapstick comedy even if you can’t understand a word of what’s going on! Dinner tonight will be a traditional-style “mumu” where food is wrapped with coconut cream in banana leaves and slow-cooked in under hot stones. Overnight Polen guest house, Shagur village, Kairiru Island |
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DAY 4: FRI 15 OCT KAIRIRU
ISLAND / WEWAK / SEPIK RIVER (YAMOK) By 9:00am our boats will come ashore on the beach in front of the Windjammer Beach Hotel which is a convenient place to rendezvous with our waiting vehicles. The hotel bar will be open by this time so you can have quick beer and a bowl of fries while we load up if you wish. By 10:00am we’ll board our 25-seater bus (with trailing luggage vehicle), and commence our 4-hour drive from Wewak to the Sepik River. The road from Wewak to Pagwi on the Sepik River is bitumen sealed
most of the way and quite a pleasant journey. First we climb steep
winding curves from the steamy coastal strip to the cool forests
of the undulating Prince Alexander Range. Two hours into the trip
we will stop at a roadside market for a lunch of tropical fruits,
cooked vegetables and delicious green coconuts to drink (pay as you
go). At Pagwi we transfer to our waiting motor canoes and head down-river approximately one hour to the Korogo Fishing Lake, an ox-bow lake formed by a cut-off river bend. Here we leave our canoes and walk for an hour through light rainforest to Yamok village. In the past, Yamok was a riverside village but changes in the course of the Sepik River over the past century have now left Yamok well inland. The hike to Yamok is easy walking, mainly flat ground, and mud will be the only inconvenience if the ground is wet but this is the dry season. Porters will hump your bags and our other supplies so you won’t have to carry anything. Visiting Yamok is well worth it as this village is probably the most beautiful on the Sepik and has seven Haus Tambarans (mens spirit houses) which is more than any other Sepik village. Very few tourists visit this village so we are assured of a warm welcome. On arrival at Yamok, we will be welcomed by a traditional “sing-sing” and then tour the village. Special permission will be given for the women in our tour party to enter the Haus Tambarans, which are strictly off-limits to local women. Overnight village guest house, Yamok |
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DAY 5: SAT 16 OCT SEPIK
RIVER (YAMOK / KANGANAMAN) Crocodiles play a major part in the cultural heritage of the Middle Sepik people. Crocodiles are animal totems symbolising strength and power. In the Middle Sepik crocodile cult villages of Yentchen, Palembei and Kanganaman, the attributes of the crocodile are so envied that the men even try to make themselves look like crocodiles. The initiation of boys into adulthood involves a painful scarification ritual during which dozens of small cuts are made all over the back from shoulders to hips, and pockets of skin are lifted away from the flesh. Upon healing, this leaves raised scars that resemble the bumpy back of the crocodile. Such initiations are carried out in secret only once or twice a year and outsiders are not normally allowed to witness the cutting ceremony. Back at Kanganaman,
in the late afternoon we will observe sago being extracted from
the pith of
sago palms,
and learn 20 ways to cook
sago. In the evening we will sit around the men’s spirit house
and hear the elders recount tribal legends and play their bamboo
flutes and garamut drums.
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DAY
6: SUN 17 OCT SEPIK RIVER / SIMBAI Exiting the Chambri Lakes and rejoining the main Sepik River we
will arrive at Timbunke Mission by midday. On arrival at Simbai airstrip we will be met by local guides with plenty of helpful hands to carry our bags for the 30 minute walk to the Kalam Guest House, a basic but comfortable facility built in local style. Simbai government
station is the district headquarters. It is just a remote outpost,
not a town.
There is
a two-man district office,
a primary school, a small trade store, a couple of little churches,
and a dozen prefabricated houses for the small number of provincial
government staff, local missionaries and school teachers. Thirty
to sixty minutes walking time from the “station” are
the first Kalam tribal villages, constructed of bush materials. More
villages are located deeper in the surrounding hills. The village
people live subsistence lifestyles: hunting, gathering and gardening.
Apart from a few coffee plots there is very little commercial agriculture
here because there is no vehicular access for transporting crops
out. After checking in at the guest house we will begin a program of
village tours and cultural activities. Today we expect to: Overnight Kalam Guest House |
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DAY 7: MON 18 OCT SIMBAI (Waim village experience) Overnight Kalam Guest House |
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DAY
8: TUE 19 OCT SIMBAI / MT HAGEN From Simbai to Mt Hagen is a half hour flight. We will be met at Mt Hagen airport by the hotel shuttle bus and transfer to the Highlander Hotel in time for lunch (pay as you go). After lunch we will take a half day tour of the Waghi Valley which is the agricultural powerhouse of the highlands. We’ll see tea and coffee plantations, market gardens and a tropical orchid display. Our tour will include a stop at Paiya village to meet the chief and his three wives, visit the ancestors skull house and initiated men’s house, and see demonstrations of courtship ritual (karim leg) and wig making. Overnight Highlander Hotel, Mt Hagen |
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DAY 9: WED
20 OCT MT HAGEN / GOROKA The road twists and winds around numerous hairpin bends affording excellent panoramic views in all directions along the route. There are several high mountains passes where the road weaves through beautiful forested areas with gushing waterfalls and amazing plant diversity. About two thirds of the way we will make a stop at the hotel in Kundiawa for lunch. Kundiawa is the “capital” of the Chimbu province but just a small town. The hotel restaurant serves basic fare including fish and chips, steak and vegetables, toasted sandwiches and salads. Pay as you go. From Kundiawa the highway descends to Goroka via the verdant Daulo Pass. Visible from your vehicle through the swirling mists of the Pass is a magnificent variety of flowering trees and non-flowering ferns and palms, bubbling brooks and tiny waterfalls. Children sell fresh flower garlands on the roadside. As we pass by Asaro village we will stop and pay a visit to the Asaro Mudmen at home before they commence their journey to Lae to perform at the Morobe Show. These people have a tradition of crafting fierce looking clay helmets worn during tribal fights in the old days to frighten the enemy. The helmets are also worn for traditional dancing and drama performances demonstrating how their ancestors stalked enemy tribes. You’ll be shown how the clay helmets are made and used, and you’ll be treated to some dance and drama – a little “touristy” but entertaining. Continuing down the Asaro Valley we come to the town of Goroka nestled at the foot of Mt Kiss. Goroka is said to be the most “civilised” town in the highlands because it is a university town and there are many Papua New Guineans from other parts of the country living here as college staff and students, so there is a bit of a cosmopolitan feel. However as soon as you leave the town you step back in time to typical highlands villages where the locals live age-old subsistence lifestyles and maintain the traditions of their ancestors, as we will see tomorrow. Overnight Bird of Paradise Hotel, Goroka
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DAY
10: THU 21 OCT GOROKA (village experience) Overnight Bird of Paradise Hotel, Goroka |
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DAY 11:
FRI 22 OCT GOROKA / LAE After lunch back at the hotel (pay as you go) we will commence our 6 hour drive to Lae. This is also a very scenic road trip, first passing through high montane countryside to Henganofi, Kainantu and the Yonki Dam then descending to the T-junction with the Madang-Lae road at Gusap, the small town at the top of the Markham Valley. Between Yonki and Gusap you will notice the change in temperature and humidity as you pass through the thermal inversion layer separating the temperate highlands from the steamy tropical lowlands. The Markham Valley is the economic powerhouse of the Morobe Province and is dotted with cattle and poultry farms, rice paddies, market gardens and experimental plots. Wide and flat, the valley is a marked contrast to the hemmed-in feel of road travel in the highlands. On arrival in Lae we will check in at our hotel and spend a quiet evening. Overnight The Melanesian Hotel, Lae |
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DAY 12: SAT 23 OCT LAE (Morobe Show) Crowds are also an opportunity for pickpockets so today you should leave all handbags, large cameras, wallets, purses and other valuable items back at the hotel and just bring a single small camera and whatever cash you might need carried in a buttoned pocket or money belt. The main risk is from Artful Dodger-type little boys who might snake their hand into your pocket or handbag while you are busy looking at the exhibits. Tomorrow at the sing-sing program you will be sitting in a special enclosure away from the crowds which will be safe for bringing all your cameras and bags etc. After around 3 hours at the show we will return to the hotel for lunch (if you are not full of local delicacies by that time!) and a short siesta. In the afternoon we will do some sightseeing around Lae city including stops at the Melanesian Arts and Crafts Centre (basically an artifact shop – they have some quite unusual collectors items), the botanical gardens, war cemetery and the Rainforest Habitat which is a huge walk-through aviary housing a variety of native animals and birds – the closest thing to a zoo that we have here in Papua New Guinea. Overnight The Melanesian Hotel, Lae |
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DAY 13:
SUN 24 OCT LAE (Morobe Show) Overnight The Melanesian Hotel, Lae
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DAY 14: MON 25 OCT LAE
/ PORT MORESBY Click
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