EM3e – MIDDLE SEPIK, BLACKWATER LAKES AND KARAWARI RIVER EXPEDITION FOR INDEPENDENT TRAVELLERS 7 nights ex-Wewak (extendable) The Middle Sepik villages are rich in animistic cultural beliefs and produce a prolific range of cultural artefacts such as wall masks, figurines, bilum bags, flutes, drums, implements, body decorations and bride-price shell money. Each village has its own unique artistic style. From the Middle Sepik this tour follows the Korosameri River, a tributary of the Sepik, up into the Blackwater Lakes, a remote area well off the tourist trail where people live a very traditional lifestyle far from civilisation. Blackwater villages have a unique artistic style in their artefacts. From the Blackwater Lakes you will then follow the Karawari River upstream to the renowned Karawari Lodge. At the end of this tour you will fly out from Karawari Lodge airstrip to Mt Hagen. Regular flights are operated by the owners of the Lodge on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays. Flights on other days of the week can be arranged on charter basis at extra cost. This is a remote area trip and there is no public transport so it is necessary to charter a private motor canoe (longboat) for touring along the river. Due to these high overhead costs of travel, this package is more economical for small groups. To see prices, trip notes and detailed list of inclusions, click here to download the full itinerary for EM3e in Acrobat (PDF) format. ITINERARY:
A view of Wewak town from the aircraft Wewak town market	DAY 1: WEWAK On arrival at Wewak airport you will be met by the hotel transfer vehicle and driven to the hotel for check-in. If arriving on a morning or early afternoon flight, our local guide will be available to show you around Wewak town (walking). The hotel is situated close to the main commercial area, market and foreshore. The market has a wide variety of fresh produce and a selection of artefacts for sale. Overnight hotel, Wewak (standard single or twin room, includes breakfast) NB Where possible we book the In-Wewak Boutique Hotel which is located on a hill overlooking the ocean. When they have no availability or when it is more practical for boating purposes for you to stay close to the beach, we book the Windjammer Beach Motel.
Pagwi mission station, gateway to the Upper Sepik to the west and the Middle Sepik to the east Travelling by motorised Sepik canoe Haus Tambaran, Yamok village	DAY 2: WEWAK / MIDDLE SEPIK (YAMOK) Morning road trip from Wewak to the Pagwi Mission station on the Middle Sepik. Upstream from Pagwi is referred to as the Upper Sepik and downstream from Pagwi is the Middle and Lower Sepik. Our vehicle and driver will pick you up at the hotel at 7.00am for the 5 hour drive. The road is rough and bumpy in places, so bring a travel pillow or bath towel to sit on. Initially the vehicle climbs through the Prince Alexander Range featuring high montane forest, and the road is tar-sealed as far as Maprik (2 hours from Wewak). A half hour stop can be made in Maprik where you may use restrooms and purchase refreshments. There are a number of large haus tambarans (men’s spirit houses) which may be inspected here. From Maprik to Pagwi (2½ hours) the road is largely unsealed. The road passes through the Sepik plains, gradually descending in altitude down to the river basin. The vegetation along this sector consists of grassy plains interspersed with light tropical rainforest. A packed lunch is provided by the hotel, which you may eat en route or on arrival at Pagwi while waiting for your canoe to be fuelled. Pagwi is just a scattering of houses and there are no rest facilities so a roadside comfort stop may be appropriate a few kilometres before arrival. At Pagwi your guide will assist you to transfer to your motorised Sepik canoe and by early afternoon you will commence your downriver journey to Korogo village. From Korogo, hike inland to Yamok (90 minutes walking), a beautiful traditional Sepik village with 7 spectacular Haus Tambarans (men’s spirit houses) and its own distinct style of artefacts and bilums. At Yamok, you will tour the village and learn about the spiritual beliefs of the people. Tonight a traditional “sing-sing” will be held in your honour. Overnight village guest house, Yamok (includes dinner and breakfast). *NB There is an airstrip at Yamok and flying in by chartered light aircraft is a possible alternative to travelling overland via Pagwi. It costs an extra K2500 and it depends if an aircraft is available on the day but is a viable alternative mode of travel for parties of 3 or more.
Crocodile dance, Yentchen village Girls paddling a dugout canoe, Middle Sepik	DAY 3: MIDDLE SEPIK (PALEMBEI, YENTCHEN, KANGANAMAN) After breakfast this morning, you will hike back to Korogo with your guide and your canoe will take you further down river to the crocodile cult villages of Palembei, Yentchen and Kanganaman. These villages all have haus tambarans crammed with carved artifacts. After visiting Palembei and Yentchen and learning about the crocodile scarification rituals which take place once or twice a year, you will spend the afternoon at Kanganaman observing sago cooking demonstration and perhaps learning to paddle a small dugout canoe in the calm shallows. In the evening you may have the opportunity to join some villagers going out for night fishing (or crocodile hunting). This activity is for the bold and courageous only. The bold and beautiful can spend the evening sitting around the men’s spirit house and hear the chiefs and initiated men recount tribal legends and play their bamboo flutes and garamut drums (no TV for evening entertainment here!). Overnight village guest house, Kanganaman (includes dinner and breakfast)
Fishing in the lakes during dry season A Aibom woman at work busy with her fired pottery	DAY 4: MIDDLE SEPIK / CHAMBRI LAKES This morning your motorised canoe will transport you through narrow waterways that connect the main Sepik River to the Chambri Lakes. The Lakes may be semi-dry in the middle of the dry season (July/August) or filled to capacity and even flooded during the wet season (December to February). You will see a lot of bird life today, and locals fishing with nets. One of the lakeside villages, Aibom, is renowned for its clay pottery. You can see potters at work and purchase fired pottery. Next stop, Kirimbit village has an airstrip and a mission radio, which is reassuring in case you fall ill during the first part of the trip and decide to fly out early. The villages along the shores of the Chambri Lakes have a distinct culture and artistic style – you will be able to purchase some of the unique local art. Few tourists visit the Chambri Lakes as it is off the main river so you will “have the place to yourself”. Overnight Aibom or Kirimbit village guest house (includes dinner and breakfast).
A villager catching fish with his fishing net alone the Chambri Lakes	DAY 5: CHAMBRI LAKES / BLACKWATER LAKES After breakfast, you will depart the Chambri Lakes via the Kumalio canal back on to the main river for half an hour down to Mindibit village then turn south up the Korosameri River for about two hours before arriving at Tungambit village in the Blackwater Lakes. This village has a little guest house from where you can base yourself while spending the rest of the day exploring the various hamlets at the edge of this ragtag collection of lakes whose shorelines change from year to year after flooding. Sangriman village next to Tungambit has a unique carving style and since tourists hardly ever make it this far so you are sure to stumble across something interesting to purchase. Overnight Tungambit village guest house (includes dinner and breakfast)
Karawari riverside homestay	DAY 6: BLACKWATER LAKES / KARAWARI RIVER Spend the morning at Blackwater then motor back down the Korosameri River to the confluence with the Karawari River then up the Karawari for two hours to a small family hamlet near Manjamai village. There is no guest house here and your overnight on the riverside here will be a more intimate home stay experience with a local family known to your guide. Overnight village homestay, Karawari River (includes dinner and breakfast)
Bird watching at chambri lakes Explore the demonstration of sago making	DAY 7: KARAWARI LODGE Just an hour further upstream is Karawari Lodge where you will spend your last night. This award-winning wilderness lodge is owned by Trans Niugini Tours based in Mt Hagen, who also operates the Ambua Lodge near Tari in the Southern Highlands. This is 3 star accommodations out in the middle of nowhere! Upon check-in at Karawari Lodge this morning you will say farewell to your guide and canoe crew and they will commence their 10-hour journey back to Pagwi. After lunch, Karawari Lodge staff will offer you a choice of excursions for birdwatching, plants and flowers or local village study. A sago-making demonstration is an interesting experience that you may care to request. The Lodge stocks a good range of local artefacts so you may want to spend some time browsing for items that you were unable to buy en route. Overnight Karawari Lodge (single or twin-share bungalow, includes lunch, dinner and breakfast)
Arriving Mt Hagen town (WHP)	DAY 8: KARAWARI LODGE / MT HAGEN After breakfast this morning it is a short walk to the airstrip to wait for the lodge’s private aircraft for a half hour flight to Mt Hagen. On arrival in Mt Hagen, Trans Niugini Tours will assist you to check in for your onward flight, or transfer you to your next hotel or tour experience. ONE-NIGHT EXTENSION TO WEWAK ISLANDS (This can be programmed as Day 2 prior to departure for Sepik River on Day 3. Seven nights package becomes eight nights).
Muschu island (Wewak) A WW2 Japanese turnel at Shagur village, Kairiru Island Emanating bubbling hot spring at Victoria Bay Polen guest house (Shagur village) Kairiru Island	DAY 2: WEWAK / WEWAK ISLANDS The two Wewak Islands are Kairiru and Muschu. Kairiru is a mountainous, forest-covered island with waterfalls and hot springs – the Japanese had an operations base here during World War 2. Muschu is a flat island with coconut plantations encircled by pretty beaches with great snorkelling reefs. Our local guide will meet you at the hotel or airport and transfer you by open speed boat 30 minutes from Wewak to the offshore island of Muschu for some beachwalking, swimming and snorkelling (mask and snorkel is supplied). Village people at Muschu Island will provide coconut juice and fruit for your lunch or afternoon snack. From Muschu it is another 20 minutes by boat to Shagur Village on the seaward (north) side of Kairiru Island. Here, the village people will await you with an enthusiastic traditional welcome. Shagur village Island is literally a tropical paradise situated amidst luscious green rainforest. The houses are all traditional style, made of bush materials only. This contrasts with the inland areas of the Sepik River where the topography is fairly flat and dry, despite the presence of the watercourse, and cultural entertainment is not as energetic due to the more regular tourist visits. As Ecotourism Melanesia is currently the only tour company arranging visits to Kairiru, the number of visitors going there is relatively small and each visit is special and personal for both the village people and the visitor. The people here have a well-prepared repertoire of cultural dances, songs and drama to perform for visitors – one of the best village cultural experiences anywhere in PNG. After a familiarisation walk around the village you’ll be led on a short hike east of the village to the waterfall for a refreshing splash, then hike around to the west of Shagur to explore tidal caves, ending up at Victoria Bay where there is a nice beach and a small bubbling hot spring emanating from a rocky outcrop on the sand. The hot spring empties into the sea which makes for a great mineral spa. From Victoria Bay, return by speed boat to Shagur Village. (If you are not a hiker you can be transferred by boat to and from Victoria Bay instead). Tonight you will be treated to a cultural entertainment extravaganza with all manner of traditional singing, dancing and drama skits portraying the island legends – be prepared to split your sides over some great slapstick comedy even if you can’t understand a word of what’s going on! Dinner tonight will be an island-style feast. Overnight Polen guest house, Shagur village, Kairiru Island (basic twin or multi-share accommodation – all bedding and netting supplied - includes meals).
Open speed boat transfer to Kairiru island	DAY 3: WEWAK ISLANDS / MIDDLE SEPIK (YAMOK) Transfer by speed boat direct to Wewak foreshore and board your vehicle for morning road trip from Wewak to the Pagwi mission station on the Middle Sepik.