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EM60
SIMBAI HARD TREK
Paul
Neumann October 2008:
On
arrival in Madang, I was met by Dickson and taken to the Coastwatchers
Hotel
with beautiful views of the Bismarck
Sea. I was met there by Jane and Angie, my knowledgeable and
friendly guides for my tour of Madang. Last minute preparations
were made
for my four day trek in the Highlands from Kanains to Dusin.
After
a hot
shower and a good night’s rest Dickson met me at the
local airport and we waited for the six-seat airplane that
would take
me to Kanains.
After a spectacular one hour flight, the plane bounced to a stop
at tiny Kanains and I was met by my trek guide Phillip and Stanley,
one
of my porters. The whole village greeted me and showed me a memorable
welcome. I brought a small toy football which I tossed around with
the kids. Phillip my guide is the owner of a homestay in Kanains
that assures sightings of birds-of-paradise in the jungle. A stay
here will
result in fine photos of these spectacular birds.
Leaving Kanains, we walked with some locals higher into the jungle-covered
mountains. Along the way, we met many locals on the trail and exchanged
friendly greetings and handshakes. The locals seemed happy to see
a foreigner passing through their remote villages.
Upon arrival in fog-shrouded Kamboin, the villagers welcomed us
with a traditional sing-sing. They were proud to show off their
ornate native
dress and celebratory dances. The Kamboin homestay is on a high
ridge overlooking the jungle. The hospitality and companionship
shown by
the villagers was truly heartfelt and genuine.
The next day we hiked past waterfalls and small villages to the
Kalam Guest House in Simbai. I was given a personal tour of the
grounds by
Ronaldo, the owner. The grounds include an orchid garden, native
plants, a village area, and a great open area where I was retreated
to a sing-sing
with a backdrop of majestic mountains.
The next two days were spent trekking the seldom visited Kaironk
River valley, where the residents speak an entirely different
language from
Simbai. The villages become sparser and there are rushing rivers
to wade across—very refreshing on tired feet.
All the children in a school we were passing ran out to greet us
with cheers and smiles. The children followed us down the trail
for awhile,
curious at the foreigner passing through their remote area. That
evening we arrived at Womuk, the home of Stanley, my porter. Stanley
has built
a homestay on a dramatic ridge with sweeping views in three directions.
I was welcomed with a sing-sing and special meal. Stanley showed
me his home and property and I met his family. The people of Womuk
overwhelmed
me with hospitality and we exchanged stories in the cool mountain
air around the fire.
The next day we prepared for the legendary climb to Dusin,
the end point of the trek. Here the trail is a single track
with
single logs
over ravines and streams. There was always a helping hand from
Phillip, Stanley, or Kingston to pull up or over the tough
sections. We enjoyed
lunch with a local family along a rushing river and received
gifts of a bilum and spears. Then the trail climbed steeply
from the
Kaironk River. This is why they call it the ‘hard trek’!
We caught our breath every few minutes on the steep climbs
until we came to
a patch of jungle where we rested in the shade. Shortly thereafter,
we
arrived at Dusin and stayed in a local home. I was pretty exhausted
so I leaned against my pack in the house and took a good long
nap. The next morning I waited at the airstrip for my flight
back to
Madang.
This whole experience was an amazing way to ‘get under the
skin’ of
Papua New Guinea and how most people live their daily lives.
The people were always curious about where I was from and what
my life
in America
was like. The people in turn exchanged stories about their
lives and customs. This made the trek a true cultural immersion
experience.
This
was a great experience that showcased cultural, natural, and
scenic attractions. The region was unspoiled and I was treated
like royalty,
since there are not so many visitors here. All guides,
porters, and homestays were local, so all benefits of the visit
went directly to residents. My guide Phillip was
organized, knowledgeable,
and proud to show off his country. My porters, including Stanley,
were wonderful companions and added more local knowledge and
greatly enhanced
the experience. This was an experience unique to PNG and shows
the strengths and traditions of the country.
Paul Neumann,
Milwaukee, Wisconsin, USA
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BLAKE
FAMILY x4 GENTS (AUSTRALIA) - PRIVATE PILGRIMAGE TRIP NOV 2007
A few lines
to tell you how much my brothers, nephew and myself appreicated your
care
and
attention
to
us whilst
in PNG.
It was unfortunate that the weather, previous to our visit, had upset
our initial planned intention to visit the battle areas of Buna, Gona
and Sanananda by land and air.
Your organisation of the flights from Port Moresby to Wanigela, Popondetta,
Kokoda low level and the next day from Port Moresby to Tufi and
low level up the coast to Buna, Sanananda, Gona with circuits over
the
battle areas are a credit to your organisation. Under the circumstances
you could not have done more for us.
The visit to the cemetery at Bomana, with you and your friends, on
Sunday, although sad and emotional for us was much appreciated as was
the wreath you organised.
I must take the opportunity to thank the people of Port Moresby for
the beautiful condition of the cemetery and surrounds. So neat, clean
and well maintained.
The trip to Owers Corner was very interesting and finished our Sunday
perfectly.
My only regret is that I didnt do the trip years ago when I was a bit
fitter as the trail by foot would have been a challenge and a vivid
reminder of our war time history and the battle our boys fought and
the PNG carriers magnificent support.
The accommodation was varied but very good in the city, no complaints
there under the circumstances. The trip around the city and museum
was interesting; a pity we couldn't have had another day to have a
good look around and take our time.
Finally, I must thank you, Aaron and Ecotourism Melanesia for an unforgettable
trip with your hands-on guided tours. I will never forget you or PNG
and will most certainly highly recommend your firm to all.
Maurice E Blake
See
article written by Malum Nalu in The National newspaper
on the 7th December 2007 |
Zoe Riddoch
and friends up the Tauri River
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EM19 TAURI
RIVER ADVENTURE
Zoe Riddoch (Australia) August 2007:
My New Guinean adventure was a
surprise to no-one more than myself. Whilst
in the
throes of keeping up with a hectic corporate life, I was overwhelmed
by a need to get out and experience something real again - PNG was
calling. Six weeks later I got off the plane in Moresby and there
was no turning back.
The journey began as we left the capital on a Public Motor Vehicle,
the wide eyes of the other passengers regarding me with quiet fascination.
Upon arriving in the Tauri River region it was easy to see that the
land was rich and glowed with jungle greens. My local guides were
cousins and as the trip took me up the river I found that the village
folk were all somehow connected through an extended family network.
As we continued to trek and boat along the river, the number of guides
and porters accompanying me increased until I had quite an entourage.
I was not overly fit before arriving in New Guinea, however the trek
was not overly arduous (although the tropical heat certainly had
an impact). Aside from the food we carried in our packs, fresh fruit,
vegetable and fish were plentiful - and delicious! The villages provided
lovely local-style accommodation for me throughout the trek and at
night recounted many stories and songs, even performing village dances
in traditional dress!
The Tauri villagers were some of the most real people I have ever
come across, their generosity and interest in me exceeding all of
my expectations. A lot can be learned from these people, their values
and I most certainly have a refreshed appreciation for family and
life.
Ecotourism Melanesia did an excellent job in coordinating my trip
and ensuring the provisions for myself and the local guides. At no
time did I feel unsafe or hungry! I would recommend this trip to
anyone wanting an experience to remember.
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Ramu River village photgraphed by Rodrigo from canoe
Reception by Kalam tribe people at Kanains
village
Cuscus photographed by Rodrigo near Simbai
Kalam tribe village
View of Kanains
Fly out of Simbai - MAF Twin Otter bound for Mt Hagen
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EM61 SIMBAI EASY TREK
Rodrigo Gallegos (Mexico) October 2006:
Papua New Guinea is one of those memories
that prevails in your every day life, as it touches probably the
simplest, yet deepest part of
our human consciousness. The people of Papua and it’s unspoiled
wilderness within it’s remote, yet lively and awaken valleys
and mountains in the middle of the rainforest, bring out something
in it’s visitors hard to describe.
Papua
is in many ways the last frontier of our modern society. Not only because
the country is untouched
in many aspects, thus there
are pristine rainforest along the country, but also because the way
in which people live, relate and behave is different from what we
are used to in Western societies. People in Papua are used to giving
for the sake of giving without expecting anything in return, not
even a thank you is expected…this may seem trivial but it really
makes a differences and makes you reflect upon how we are used to
expect at least a thank you, and live upon a world of expectations.
This is perhaps some of the questionings that traveling across Papua
start to unfold. Visiting the remote villages of Papua helped me
realize that no matter how different people may seem to live, (as
many hundreds of years ago) we can communicate, feel and share joy
among us…there is just something amazing, nostalgic, romantic
and touching when you arrive to a town where people have never seen
a “Whiteman” ….yet they all come close to shake
your hand, to let you know you are most welcomed and to smile and
communicate with you through gestures and the deepness of each stare.
And even when being stared by all the community you feel as if people
are just waiting to hug you.
This is why I really recommend trekking in some of the most unexplored
parts of Papua. I had the fortune to do this in the Ramu River which
is off the beaten track; mine was the second expedition to go there
for a trekking.
I started the trek in the Ramu River, although the adventure started
when I first awaited the bus in Madang (of the eastern coast). Time
is completely different in Papua, there are no set schedules and
bus driver may stop many times to have a chat, a smoke or chew beetle
nut with friends in small markets along the roadside between destinations.
Once this continuous stopping does not worry you, you relax hoping
you can be on time for the flight out from the mountains. So you
start enjoying the many markets, the families which all travel with
sacks of fruit in the cargo lorry we travel. I recommend trying the
beetle nut just to spend some time with locals. They just love sharing
this and looking at foreigners try it.
As soon as you start driving within the mud roads from Madang to
Ramu River you appreciate the beauty of the pristine rainforest that
covers all the mountain ranges that commence to unfold in the horizon.
The bus dropped at the end of the road, close to a very small village
by the river. Here you take the canoe up the river. However it is
hard to coordinate with canoe drivers to be able to get the canoe
that same day as obviously there are no schedules. So I had to wait
for the next day to see if a canoe was to arrive as there were only
2 motor canoes in the river and nobody knew where they were.
So we walked as night began through the rainforest for about 40
minutes to another small town by the river of probably 8 little bamboo
huts. We stayed at a friends house of my guide (Philippe a dear friend)
and slept in a bamboo platform outside the hut (used for eating and
cooking) overlooking the river under a glittering sky. I will always
remember the simple yet tasteful pasta soup with all the children
and family around me.
One of the things that is amazing of Papua is that there are many
different tribes and more than 600 spoken languages. Probably the
most diverse country in the world, considering there are only 5 million
people. I believe that this has to do with the fact that there is
plenty of land and almost no food scarcity across the country, thus
people just share what they have without expecting anything in return.
Bottom line there is no real need to invade other for resources (many
of the inter tribal fighting in Papua had to do with rivalries but
also with rituals where even sometimes war was simulated). Thus,
today there are hundreds of different tribes coexisting in a small
territory, each preserving their own traditions.
Besides being very poor people in villages along the trek do not
need money as all transactions are still based on barter system.
And since food can literally be taken from trees there is this true
food sharing among tribes that is rarely seen in anywhere else in
this planet.
The trip in the canoe took almost the double than we estimated,
about 9 hours. This happens when the river is low, as you have to
paddle in some places. We stopped in various villages along the river
where we dropped and picked up other passengers that somehow continued
to fit in the long and narrow canoe made of one sole long carved
wooden tree trunk. The canoe fills up from the very beginning with
sacks of food, children animals and other passengers, there is no
space left for future load. It is a long trip under the sun so you
should wear a hat and take plenty of water to avoid exhaustion.
As the afternoon fell we descended to a little wooden village besides
the river were people were just so surprised to see me that I felt
as if I had arrived to the New World. From there we started walking
towards Aiombe a station built by the Australians. The trek is beautiful
in the middle of a tall rainforest and crossing small turquoise rivers
were you can have refreshing swims. On our 3 hour walk to Aiome from
the river night fell and the walk was spectacular. We had not prepared
well for the long day journey (as we had barely taken food with us,
big mistake) so we had to stop in a small town in the forest, whose
houses were above 2 meters bamboo platforms, beautiful, to have a
meal. Everybody literally from the town brought something from their
homes to the fire were I was sitting. I had bananas, fresh fish and
bread they cook from millet. This has been one of the most memorable
meals of my life, sharing with the whole community, smiling at pictures
and just enjoying together.
In Aiome we slept in a teachers
hut inside the school. This was great as students and teachers come
to share with you their experiences
and want to learn more about your country. So I found a great moment
to exchange opinions and ask questions about Papua and learn from
a Papuan perspective.
The next day is the most exhausting day as you climb all day long
for at least 6 hours, so try and start early in the morning before
the sun pours down. The views of the rainforest and the Ramu River
below are stunning. Also in the highlands the temperature cools off
and the views of the mountain range covered in green on the other
side are breathtaking.
Here
we arrived to one of the most beautiful villages you’ll
encounter in your life, Kenains. Last year they had just built some
small cottages for tourist and I was the first tourist to stay there.
The project is brilliant as all the walls, roofs, bathrooms and furniture
were built by the community with fine knitting of leaves on walls,
ceilings, beds and even chairs…overwhelming! The whole community
came down to greet me and perform traditional dances. They were really
happy to have a foreigner stay the overnight with them.
During the night a group from the community shared stories by the
fire overlooking the rainforest and the mountain range in the distance.
Food was excellent and we had a great moment of exchanging and learning
from each other.
In the
morning before dawn we went down the mountainside to spot the Birds
of Paradise in the morning dance.
They already built a
shelter covered in leaves so that the birds cannot see their expectators.
This is one of nature’s most breathtaking exhibitions. The
male just hops beside the female on the trip showing his feathers
and expanding his body with grace and multiple colors. Many males
dance in the same branch while they chant to a female. Yet females
also cry out while they wait for males, really something worth seeing.
Leaving Kenains was definitely
hard, I really enjoyed my stay in this fine corner of earth surrounded
by paradise birds, orchids and
the pristine forest.
The
next day’s walk is much more
tranquil as there is no climbing and it is not as hot as it is
down by the river basin as all the
walk is in the highlands. From here views from the Bismarck Mt Range
in front can be seen. I was really glad to be on this mountain range
as on the other you can see right away how the forest is different
as most of rainforest has been substituted by eucalyptus forest and
there are more villages to be spotted as there are paved roads.
In the late afternoon we
arrived to the valley of Simbai. A beautiful green valley surrounded
by pine trees were it even gets cold. Here
you find some small hotels and infrastructure. It is nice quiet little
town in the highlands with fine gardens and nice people.
The next morning I said
goodbye to my guides (now I had another, Phillip a wonderful man
from Kenains that has also joined us at Aiome).
I felt this huge nostalgia of knowing that although it was only a
few days experience with them, our time together had something to
them that felt very real. I flew out in a small plane of the Missionaries
Air Force from a small grass airstrip surrounded by high mountains,
among sacks of coffee and 2 pilots. From the air I saw the Ramu River
meandering as a huge brown serpent in this green sea of unspoiled
rainforest stretching from the lowlands to all the mountains.
I do not have enough words
to thank Ecotourism Melanesia for making this experience possible
and so rewarding and hope that this is useful
to encourage other travelers seeking for some of this uniqueness
to discover this amazing corner of our planet. I have attached some
pictures so you can have more an idea of what I mean.
I recommend using Ecotourism Melanesia as they train people from
communities on how to operate and build infrastructure for making
this trip possible for trekkers, being part themselves of the business.
If I can be of any help in your travel plans, please do not hesitate
to contact me.
Rodrigo Gallegos,
Mexico City,
ventufly@yahoo.com
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